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Peak Mountain 3

Shark Ride

FA Jeff Mahoney and Jeff Baugher 8/4/13
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

On the lower left flank of Wall 3.

The start of "Shark Ride" (Yes, you can get a good cam in that hole where the seam heads up right, but your next piece won't be for another 20' at least)

Fun & spicy on hard rock to start. The mental crux is following the diagonal seam on your toes up to the first pod, only to discover you can't place any gear until you pull through to the next pod at about 35'. From there, walk your toes across the left-leaning crack and then straight up to a shelf below a mini-bulge/roof. Pull the roof with a double gaston then head right over to the pinnacle. Slot a piece on the second horizontal and then surmount the shark fin, up and over on a razor edge and follow this up and back to the upper left side of the Wall 3 Tower. Build your anchor here in the horizontal crack above the pedestal you're on.

One anchor option.

Pitch two takes the thin crack up to the next horizontal break and then a beautiful lieback flake (if only it were 30 feet longer...). Sling the flake or place a marginal bigger cam to the right of your feet, then finish up the patina edges on the face.

Looking up at P2. Take the thin crack up.

A full-value route.

Looking down from the top of "Shark Ride"

Protection

A rack of singles to 4" and a few extra finger pieces if you want to sew it up. A smaller offset nut will slot beautifully in the improbable thin crack a few moves off the pedestal on P2---and the sandy nature of the rock and instant exposure make it all worth it.