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Peak Mountain 3

Southern Migration

FA Chuck Woodman, Jack Dorsey
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Pitch 1: Scramble up the low angle slab til beneath a steeper bulge. A couple bolts and a small cam lead over bulge (crux, 5.9). Continue past a couple more bolts to a stance and two bolt anchor. 5.9 170'

Variation - Clip the first two bolts of the regular first pitch, then go left to a flake. Continue up on easy slab to a two bolt anchor left of bushes. Going this way avoids the crux bulge. 5.6 170'

Variation Pitch 2: Continue straight up a clean strip past a bolt, and then another (which is now a 2 bolt set-up), then merge right with the regular P2. 5.6 180'

Pitch 2: Easy slab climbing leads up past a couple bolts. Below bushes, head up and right (piton) past a couple overlaps (2nd piton, driven up-side-down) to a double bolt anchor below a steep wall. 5.6 180'

Pitch 3: Angle left on a slab, then head straight up the steep face. Positive holds, ample protection (including a couple of bolts), and interesting moves make for a spectacular pitch. Near the top of the wall, head right, then claw up 15' of fir branches to a tree anchor. Ignore an orange sling on a tree up and right. Off route. 150' 5.7

Pitch 4: Walk left 15', then climb up to a broken corner in a steep wall. Continue up past a bolt, make a difficult mantle, then head up and left to a smooth slab. Climb up and left past bolts, then go straight up to a belay next to the trees. 5.7 130'

Pitch 5: Scramble left along a ramp, then right past a small tree to a bolt in a slab. Continue up past bushes on easy rock til below the final steeper slab. Angle right past a couple bolts to an anchor at the top. 5.7 120'

Location

starts at the bottom toe of the cliff.

Protection

the second pitch is pretty loose in some spots and the gear is less than desirable. However, it is a great alpine pitch. The second pitch of Perennial is a much better alternative.