Normal Route

This is likely the easiest way to summit the Lesser Spire. Ingraham calls it 4th class, but he does mention roped vs. unroped climbing, so his definition of 4th likely includes roped climbing. Approach by either east (via Rabbit Ears Canyon), or west (west described herein). From the Topp Hut, hike the road towards the mine, but turn right on an old mining road before the mine proper (this is the approach to Southern Comfort Wall). At the end of the road, follow the climbers trail to Southern Comfort. Follow the climbers trail all the way around to the routes in the middle of the wall, then follow a faint trail leading right and descend a break through the lower wall into the gully. Consistent with Organ Mountain approaches, your 'trail' now consists of finding the path of least resistance. You want to aim for the col just north of the Lesser Spire by ascending a maze of minor gullies. The area is relatively lightly vegetated (by Organ Mt. standards), but there are some thick sections and there is some loose rock to watch for. Once at the saddle, you are afforded with a great view of the Rabbit Ears to the east, and a rare vantage point of the chutes (incl. Boyer's Chute) on the west side of North Rabbit Ear. Belay from the saddle, or better yet to avoid rope drag and some brush, scramble up and a little left to a nice belay stance in some brush. Climb out left, then turn up towards the left edge of a largish roof (low 5th), and set a belay once past the roof. Scramble right then left to a large ledge. From this expansive ledge, you can go way left (where the ledge ends) make an easy but exposed move and turn right, or go up over the headwall directly (right over some flakes, hand traverse left to a vertical crack, and up. Set another belay amongst some large boulders. From here, scramble to the summit.

Note: I originally posted this route as Easy 5th, but have been convinced that the rating may be soft, so I upped it to 5.4 (isn't 5.4 low 5th?), but I digress...

From the small col north of Lesser Spire, the route climbs the NE ridge. You can reach the col from the east (Rabbit Ears Canyon) or west (ascend a gully from below the Southern Comfort Wall). Three raps get you back down to the col.

Light rack. No fixed anchors. There are old rap slings for descent.