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Peak Mountain 3

Stranger Than Friction

FA Pascal Robert & Thomas Kelley
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Pitch 1 Climb up slabby terrain through a couple bolts and gear to a belay on the right side of faint groove. 5.8

Pitch2 climb up off belay to right of groove eventually stepping back into groove and climbing this for a handful of moves then stepping left back on to the face and straight up to belay 5.9+

Pitch 3 climb straight off belay through a couple boulder problems eventually trending back right through bulge and back into the groove up to belay 5.11

Pitch 4 climb straight up through amazing groove for almost a full rope length to belay. 5.10R

Pitch 5 we climbed straight up the right groove and simul climbed for 30’ or so eventually exiting right ending at the anchors for route of the living dead. After looking at a Topo we realized that you are supposed to climb up the right groove eventually going back into the left groove to reach official anchors for the route. Going right had limited gear and was crunchy. Also take note of the loose blocks and an executioner flake. Easy terrain but be conscious of these hazards. Maybe going up the left groove is safer/better climbing? 5.9R

Pitch 6 This is a bonus pitch for those who are craving one more. The climbing is a little crusty. Trend right to a left angling water groove and follow this to the trees. 5.10R

Double rope raps from tree and down route of the living dead eventually aiming back skiers right to the first belay of stranger than friction and then back to your packs. I believe you could rap the route just fine if you desired or rap nathans route friction addiction. Lots of bolted anchors around

Location

This routes official start is up on a ledge under a left facing corner directly under the groove but it can be started from the ground just fine with a small bit of simul climbing on easy terrain

Protection

Two 60 meter ropes, single rack .1-4 and some tricams if you fancy. All anchors are bolted


Routes in Laurel Knob


  1. 65
    Stranger Than Friction
    5.11
    Trad