Fire Hydrant Spire

A fun route that can be done even in the summer.

P1: 5.10. Climb up some broken rock to get into the obvious left angling crack system on the north face. Thin hands to perfect hands up a ramp to a rest stance. Pull through the short but steep thin hands crux, a short wider section, and on up to the belay ledge. Great pitch!

P2: 5.9. Climb easy rock up to an OW section and clip a drilled angle. Thrutch up into a slot and continue up broken rock to an alcove. Launch up into another wide section, sink some hand jams and pull out onto a ramp. Wind your way up and left to the summit.

The approach is the crux of the day. Be ready to bushwhack. Here is a vague approach description. From the Marg's Draw trail head at the top of Sombart Ln hike up the Marg's Draw trail and continue straight at the intersection. Look ahead into Marg's Draw. The Orca is an obvious spire about halfway up. To its right at the top of the draw is a big formation called King Crimson. King Crimson has drainages on both sides of it. You want the one on the right. Fire Hydrant and the Maceta are up in that small canyon (not visible). Walk cross country for five minutes or so and get into the drainage on your right. Follow this for 45 minutes or so and exit onto the slabs below King Crimson. Find your way into the drainage on the right and follow it up stream. The Maceta and Fire Hydrant will soon come into view. Continue in the wash until you are even with Fire Hydrant's huecoed south face. Hike up to its west side where the route begins.

It's also possible, from the main wash, to make a right into the correct drainage long before you get to the King Crimson Slabs. It is a pretty nondescript turn and the wash sucks but it may save some time.

Camalots - doubles .4, .5, .75, 1, 3, 4 quadruples 2 Descent: From the summit scramble down 40 feet or so to the rap anchor (drilled angles and webbing). One 60m rope will get you down.