The Kingfisher

The Kingfisher weaves an incredible path up the left side of the Barb Flake culminating with the dramatic Kingfisher Arete. Currently there are 5 new pitches beginning from Middle Earth Ledge. Begin with the first 2 pitches of

Sykes' Sickle

, then work over to the right and down 15 feet to a bolted anchor to begin the new pitches.   There will be two independent pitches for a direct start.  These pitches are currently under development.

P1 (

Sykes' Sickle

)

5.7.

Climb flakes in a Left facing corner that is just left of the obvious wide crack. Belay at a stance with a nest of slings after 100 feet.

P2 (

Sykes' Sickle

)

5.5.

Continue up and then trend left on nice flakes then go left around a little corner at a blocky roof section. The pitch then opens up onto some bigger ledges. Continue up and right to belay behind a massive, truck-sized boulder. There is a nice grassy alcove between the boulder and the main wall (140').

We had the follower downclimb from behind the massive boulder and go right then down to the bolted anchor station (see the topo). The leader then climbed out from behind the boulder and just traversed straight across to start the next pitch. This way the leader didn't have to downclimb to the anchor. The bolted anchor is the best place to belay for the next pitch to avoid rope drag.

P3 (Currently the first pitch of The Kingfisher)

5.9.

Traverse right from the massive boulder, and go across easy ledges and over some really large flakes that are sitting on the ledge. Continue right into a left-facing corner system. Work up the corner aiming for the roof part way up the corner (see the beta photo).  Work out of the corner to the right and get established over the roof using cool knobs. Follow two bolts up the face to an anchor at a nice sloping ledge feature (100').

P4 (Lost Arrow Traverse or the "LA Times" pitch)

5.10+.

Go up and right a few feet to a grassy ledge. Take the upper of two left-slanting groove/cracks off the ledge. The groove gets steeper as you go and opens up for gear.   When the crack ends work out right onto the face then up to clip a bolt.  Now go straight up to the start of The LA Times crack. There are 5 LA's plus some gear opportunities along this sustained and beautiful traverse. The crack leads to a cool ledge in the middle of the wall (100').

P5 (The "Sea of Doubt" pitch)

5.11b.

Move to the left side of the ledge, and clip the first of 10 bolts. Follow the bolts through this amazing face. Beautiful knobs, scoops, and some delicate foot work will get you to the chains. No gear is needed on this pitch (100').

P6 (The "Halcyon Crack")

5.10b.

Go up the small left-facing corner from the belay, then step out right and traverse along some big cool knobs to the start of the crack. Work up the tight fingers to a small roof feature (crux), then continue up the splitter, straight-in crack. This crack ends at a stance. From this stance, go up a left facing corner a short ways and then take the obvious slanting crack that goes out left across the wall. Finish on a great ledge directly on the edge of the Barb Flake (100').

P7 ("The Kingfisher Arete")

5.11a.

Work up the pillar directly off the belay following bolts.  There is a difficult move getting into a small corner and over a small roof with some big flakes out left.  Use the flakes for a couple of foot presses, but DON'T reach out and start pulling on the flakes! There are lieback holds on the main section of the wall and the line is bolted tightly through this section to keep you on course. Now follow the bolts up and then out left with your feet directly on the edge of the massive void! Amazing knobs take you to the very edge of the arete. Continue up using engaging knobs and scoops along the arete. The final bolt is out to the right from the top of the arete. This pitch is really extraordinary! 13 draws plus a #0.3 or 0.4 Camalot are all you will need on this pitch (100').

You can either rap from here directly down the route with a 70m rope or you can downclimb off the back of the Barb Flake feature into the notch (exciting 10a'ish), then finish on the beautiful last pitch of the

North Ridge

. The left hand, 5.7 variation, of the

North Ridge

is a really great finishing pitch.

IMPORTANT NOTE: the rappel off of Middle Earth ledge (Penultimate rappel) is a full 34m! A 70m rope will barely make it. TIE BIG KNOTS. The last station is at an uncomfortable, mostly hanging stance.  The best option is to send the first climber all the way to the ground from the penultimate rap station on a single strand.  Then the second climber will be the only one who has to deal with the hanging station.

I have climbed the Spearhead over 40 times now, and I’ve looked at this feature for 20+ years wondering if it would go. It does! The whole route came together really well and it's going to be even better once the first two pitches of the direct start are completed. I hope people will enjoy this climb, I think it’s pretty amazing.

Begin on the first two pitches of

Sykes' Sickle

, then move right to the very edge of the massive Barb Flake feature. The upper 5 pitches then parallel "

The Barb

" route. Finish on the tip of the Barb flake.

Rack:

A single set of Stoppers (no RPs needed); singles: 0.1 and 0.2 Camalot size; doubles: #0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.75, 1 Camalots; a single: #2 Camalot; and 13 draws.

All bolts were placed by hand and on rappel. The lead bolts are stainless steel 2 1/4 inch wedge bolts. The belay stations have one 3 inch SS wedge bolt and one 2 1/4 inch SS wedge bolt.

Painted chains have been installed for all the rap stations. The chains are attached to the bolt hangers with Camp 5mm quicklinks. These links look small but have a strength rating of 25kn and are made for rap installations. The chains are polished steel with a SWL rating of 2,600lbs and rope end quicklinks are either Petzl 7mm or SS 8mm.