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The Trials & Tribulations of Margaret Hastings
Description
I am still conflicted about making this a 1 or 2 pitch climb. Most certainly there are two very distinct sections separated by a ledge. Each pitch is 4 stars but the ledge gets a bit loose and drops those stars. However, the climb will still rock your Jungle boat. The variance in the type of climbing, as well as the majority of what you touch being of quality rock, will put a smile on your face as big as Margaret's.
Do the difficult off-width for six feet to start the romp, then run the enjoyable hands crack (60 ft.) to the ledge. Rest here! While gazing up, do not be discouraged! It climbs way better than it looks and takes gear in good rock. You will do a lot of stemming, some chimney moves, as well as crack climbing, all the while marveling at the head blowing exposure. AND, if (like a similarly rated climb in Ten Sleep), you do not at some point, end up facing out, you didn't send it! The labyrinth of free standing towers. walls, chimneys, and varied climbing will most certainly put a big Jungle grin on your face.
Location
Enter the crag on the most left and well trodden cairn-ed trail about halfway in on the wall and follow it west along the wall until you reach a shady dip in the trail and see the the OW gap on the right, quickly leading to the hands crack. Find that # 2 size crack catching shade in the summer by 3 pm. Early AM or after 3 PM in the heat of summer is better, in that the upper sections can get warm. You end up stemming against the NE arete of Bermuda Tower prior to finishing on the main wall where the chains are located.
Protection
Chains at the top with a quick link. A 70 m will just work.
Bring at least: Three 2' runners
One 4' runner
BD .4 X 2
.75 X 2
1s X 2
2s X 4
3s X 3
4s X 3
5s or larger X 2
And something for the chains.
Routes in Shangri La
- 3The Trials & Tribulations of Margaret Hastings5.10a/bAlpine · Trad