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Peak Mountain 3

Heinous Cling (Full)

FA Alan Watts, April 1984
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

The best route of its grade at Smith. With a dynamic crux coming near the top, a climber needs to be careful to avoid getting pumped on the technical crimps and pockets below. The route is perfect in pretty much every way. The falls are clean and the climbing exciting, and this route should be on every climber's tick-list.

Although the route extends to the top of the cliff, the upper section is rarely done. Both pitches together bump the grade to a very pumpy 5.12c with a couple of good runouts at the top. Most ascents of this route stop at the anchors halfway up (5.12a).

It's located just to the right of Chain Reaction in the middle of the Dihedrals.

Protection

5 bolts with a 2 bolt anchor. An additional 3 bolts protect the less-traveled top portion of the route.