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Peak Mountain 3

Finders Keepers

FA Pete Baertsch (2014)
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Ultra classic dihedral. Doesn't get any better than this. Originally went at V10 with a terrifying all points off, out of control dyno to the lip. New beta has unlocked a slightly more controlled sequence. With enough pads and the new beta, this problem can now be done relatively safely, but still very, very exhilarating. If you're tall with reach, you should be able to static and it will feel v8ish. If you're shorter and can't static, you may be double-clutching to the left lip, which is still quite scary, and you definitely get v9 points if you do it htat way. Has been done by a 5'5" climber this way. Hero.

Location

Start low with right hand on the far right of the right face, and left hand on a left-facing sidepull a couple feet right of the dihedral (hands about shoulder length apart). Do a thrutchy left toss into the seam in the dihedral and continue up, climbing both sides of dihedral. And alternate start is to just start as low in the dihedral as you can, but this eliminates the challenging first move coming in from the right, which is the full value line.

Protection

Pads. So many pads.