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Peak Mountain 3

Sandstone Slalom

FA FRA Andrew Fulton - Mark McDaniels
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This route links the obvious arcing crack systems up the middle of the upper face to make for a surprisingly moderate line up a fairly sizable feature. The position is wild and exposed for the grade. The best way to climb this route would be to climb a route on the lower tier such as "green eggs and sam" then link into this route, making for a fun and adventurous 1700' romp. Access from the top of the 4th class ramp system that cuts the middle of the wall. Start in the lefthand of the two crack systems. P1- 200' 5.7+; a boulder problem (crux of route) accesses a low angle crack to a chimney, follow the crack above to a good ledge. P2- 140' 5.4; Continue up the easy ramp following the crack, just before an obvious small tree, traverse easily and unprotected accross a face to a good ledge below a thin crack. P3- 160' 5.6; Climb straight up the awesome thin crack to a good belay ledge by a crispy wide crack. P4- 100' 5.7; Climb the crispy #4 crack on the left. this has the worst rock of the day. Continue up to a bulbous belay ledge. P5- 130' 5.7 PG13; not the best lead for a 5.7 climber. Climb up and right to exit the bulb. Go up a few moves in the corner then traverse the face to the left with marginal gear, follow the seem above to a belay ledge. P6- 200' 5.2; Head up the right trending ramp with a crack, quickly turns to 4th class. Stretch your rope out to the summit ridge. Move your belay to the base of the summit tower P7- 80' 5.7; Climb the left hand skyline of the summit tower with surprisingly good gear belay on the summit.

Decent- Single rope rap off the opposite side of the formation leads to the gully below. Escape the gully here and scramble down the large bowl. Continue up and over the next dome in front of you angling up and left accessing the scramblers route below the summit tower of the peak above.

Location

Up the middle of the face on the upper tier of the feature

Protection

Single rack micro to 4, double fingers to hands, single rack offset nuts.


Routes in The Wave