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Peak Mountain 3

Birdie Party

FA - Jim McCarthy and Doug Thompkins, 1959, FFA - Kevin Bein, 1966
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Pitch one is a great, solid 5.8 on its own.

Pitch one climbs a thin crack up and traverses right to a thin, left-leaning crack, continuing up past a short right-facing corner to a pair of bolts.

If you're continuing on, clip 'em put a long runner on it, 'cause your about to head right. Way right, on an exciting ride. There is a pointed flake out there in the distance ... head that way, and when you get there don't forget about your second! Continue along the exciting hand traverse across the flake to the bolt anchors above MF. Belay.

Pitch two will require a bit of wandering to get up and into the business. From the MF bolts, head left a touch to a flake in the "ceiling", wait now come back right, now crank up and over the ceiling on the flake to a stance...don't forget about how your gonna sew this one up, but don't kill yourself with rope drag either. From here the route continues straight up, connecting with MF.

We actually rapped from the mentioned stance above the crux on the second pitch. There was a scary fixed anchor that consisted of an alien with clipped wires, a TCU with clipped wires and a tricam...we lived.

From the clifftop, there are bolts to the left above Three Pines. Three rappels with a single rope will get you to the ground.

Location

The Mac Wall Trail is about a 7 minute walk from the Uberfall.

Birdie Party starts at a thin crack halfway between Something Interesting and MF; it's also about 20' right of the big tree that's just next to the start of Higher Stannard.

Protection

Standard trad rack