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Peak Mountain 3

Choss in America

FA Duane Raleigh 1988
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This seldom-climbed '80s sport route is found left of Zion's 4th pitch flake, with standard Smith crimping and pockets on the clean upper headwall of Morning Glory. The first 4 bolts are tenuous slab, leading into a technical crux section in the middle. After reaching a good rest, execute some spidery pocket sequences at the top.To descend, rappel from the ledge (80m rope or two ropes makes it to the ground in two raps, otherwise 3 raps with a 60m). You can also top out and walk off, climbing above the anchor onto a crumbling ledge to join the finish of Zion.The belay ledge and route itself are very clean, but it's probably best saved for quiet midweek days at the park just in case of rockfall above an extremely busy area.

Location

Continue straight up the corner where Zion's 3rd pitch traverses right, in 30 feet you will end up on a great ledge big enough for four.

Protection

13 bolts, chain anchor below the summit. A few small cams and mostly hand-size gear for Zion. A #6 cam would make a nice backup piece for hanging out on the big ledge.