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Peak Mountain 3

Sisu

FA Karl Kaiyala, Karl Heiss, Marianna Hviding, Sandor Nagy, 9/90
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

"Sisu" is Finnish word that roughly translates to a stubborn refusal to capitulate. This idea is core to Finnish culture and is said to be the national motto.

The story goes that Karl Kaiyala and friends spent 27 days scrubbing and prepping this route. Sisu follows a line of weakness connecting undercling flakes with sections of knobs and crimps. This route is often wet in the spring, so make sure to wait until summer. The route has afternoon shade.

P1 - 40 m - 5.11+, 16 bolt.

If you just climb this pitch of Sisu you will not be let down. Pitch 1 is a tour de force of index trickery. Awesome knobs, tricky mantles and a bit of slab to keep you on your toes. Finish on Madsen's ledge at a chain anchor.

P2 - 18 m - 5.10+, 6 bolts

From the anchor, walk right 20 feet and climb up a few boulders to reach the wall. The first bolt is way to the right of the line and should be back cleaned if possible. Traverse the horizontal cracks and then start crimping up and left to a belay.

P3 - 15 m - 5.10+, 6 bolts.

Climb horizontally to the right under-clinging the roof/flake system. Eventually crimps appear above the lip of the roof and you can make your way to the belay.

P4 - 25 m - 5.11-, 11 bolts

Start traversing to the left and then head straight up into the first crux. Catch a rest and follow the left leaning crack system past a few more challenging sections to a hanging belay.

P5 - 10 m - 5.11+, 6 bolts

A few tricky moves off the belay lead to a large flake. From here follow amazing edges up and right before hitting the final crux, getting to another hanging belay

P6 - 30 m - 5.11, 12 bolts

Tenuous knobs and slopers give way to a fun flake system. Follow this, until faced with a knobby crux moving to the right. Follow crimps and features for a ways until you hit a big ledge. Belay at a double ring anchor.

P7 - 35 m - 5.10-, ~8 bolts.

There are two ways to belay at the end of this pitch. If you have a 60m rope it's best to belay on the far left, at an anchor with huge chain links. If continiuting to the summit, or rapping with a 70m rope, keep going until you see  a three bolt anchor with a glue in bolt.

Location

Follow the trail from the Country to the Upper Town Wall. When you can see the wall walk right towards the Cheeks/Beach. Sisu is the first route to the right of a 20 foot tall flake that makes a chimney with the wall. Look for 2 bolts close together about 15 feet up.

Protection

12 Quickdraws, 4 Alpine draws. All anchors are bolted and equipped for rappel.