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Peak Mountain 3

Saint James Gate

FA Victor Copeland
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

An old Lance Bateman project.  Climbs the obvious left leaning thin crack on the south face of the Beer Can Cave boulder. Start standing below the crack.  Some relatively mellow face moves lead to the crack.  Make some technical, tricky moves to gain the crack and surf it until it ends.  Then make some hard moves up the blunt arete and follow pleasant holds to the top.  To my knowledge, this line has only been climbed on toprope.  Leading it on gear--or bouldering it--would be rather sketchy.  Video of FA from 2012 available

here

--footage begins at 2:39.

Location

South face of Beer Can Cave Boulder.

Protection

Toprope. No anchors at top (no need to place them when there are so many wonderful things to wrap a sling around!)


Routes in Beer Can Cave Area