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Peak Mountain 3

NTAD (free var to Snow White)

FA Ben Gilkison & Ryan Daudistel
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Roughly half of this route comprises terrain from the original 2nd pitch of Snow White (aid). Like everything else on the Lower Wall, the rock is impeccable and the moves technical. However, this pitch really stands out because of its incredible variety. First 30 feet is cruiser 5.10ish, then you can literally sit down and gather your wits for the boulder crux; and of course, ogle the panorama of Merchant and Mt. Index. The BP will be vastly different depending on height. I'm barely 5' and used a mono under-cling to access to start holds. Taller climbers 6'+ might utilize an enormous reach. Either way, it is challenging. --- more 5.10 follows to a slabby rest position. Once at the roof, rev up the biceps & dance on across to an exposed perch. Once rested, pop the clutch and switch into crack mode. Punch it high before placing a piece, then hang on till the anchor. ***  Originally thought this was 5.12. But...since a few strong folks have climbed it with no repeats I'm thinking it is probably harder.

Location

NTAD lies mostly between Tuna Boaters and Tad pole. It shares the same finish anchor with the latter route. The start (bolted anchor with chain) is accessed via the first pitch of Princely Ambitions (to the right) at approximately 2/3 height.

Protection

This route is mostly bolted, but the final 30 feet follows a flared crack and requires a few finger size pieces. I'd also recommend a couple small wires at the finish. Use long runners just before after during the roof traverse to mitigate drag.