A nice climb west of the standard route.

P1-2 - climb open books that begin north of the Pineapple Pass gully, then a left facing slab.

P3 - Locate three cracks that lead to an overhang, and face climb left of these.

P4 - 4th class pitch leading up to the summit.

Southwest Face

The Tooth Fairy

Tooth - Chair Traverse

South Face

East Face

Bolted by Jim Nelson and David Whitelaw? Great, well-bolted climb on a classic climbing objective in a beautiful location. Views of Mt. Rainier on the way up and tops out to views of Glacier, Baker, Stuart, etc. 60 m rope and some draws are all you need.

Ascent:

P1: Scramble up to start climbing inside the corner and move left for face climbing with good hands. 6 bolts

P2: Fun face climbing with great holds. Shift left onto the top of the face. Follow a series of ledges along the top of the face eastward to the next belay. You may not be able to see the bolts until gaining each ledge. 13 bolts

P3: Follow the bolts line up and left to the next belay. Easy, but slightly licheny 5.7 climbing. Hanger on the 2nd bolt is missing as of 6-18-2020. 4/5 bolts.

P4: Follow the bolt line up to a small face. Traverse slightly right then up to the belay. 7 bolts

P5: The crux. Look left for a bolt to gain the ledge (watch out for a loose handhold) and traverse right along the top of it. Do some awkward moves up through an opening. Then move up to do some pumpy moves to get to the belay. Extend some of the draws to minimize rope drag. 9 bolts

P6: Follow the bolt line for some easy climbing to the next belay. 5 bolts

P7: Easy scrambling. Look right to a left facing dihedral/block for the single bolt. Follow that until the summit. There may or may not be an anchor at the top (couldn't find one). Depending on comfort could sling a block, put in some small cams (0.4 and 0.5 C4s), or some nuts to build an anchor on top. 1 bolt.

Descent:

Down climb to the top of P6 and do 6 single-length rappels down to the base of the climb.

Be careful throwing rocks down if there are parties below.

Some TRs on

cascadeclimbers.com/forum/t…

Scramble up to the notch that is just south of Pineapple Pass. Then contour around clockwise to get to the start of the climb. A direct scramble up to Pineapple Pass is not recommended, as this is the rappel route. The final portion of the contour around involves some class 3 to 4 scrambling, but it is short and unexposed. Some parties have elected to do a running belay here, but it is not necessary.

The 1st couple pitches are okay with tricky protection and sub par rock(4th to 5.5) but pitches 3 and 4 are good(5.6-5.7+) with good pro. Has a more intimidating nature than other routes on the tooth

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Summer-Fall (rock)