First Pitch: Right facing dihedral with thin gear crux and one bolt down low.  11a/b

Second Pitch: (The goods) A steep "stellar" pitch on great rock with good laybacking and jamming.

You can make it to the ground from the second pitch anchor with one 70M rope.  Build an anchor for pitch 2, a #3 camalot can help here.

It is feasible to take the route to the top with a pitch of difficult to protect chossy OW (5.10ish), and a 5.4 unprotected sandy slab.

Castle Rocks Gardening Club

Humdinger

Mantle Dynamics

East Ridge Variation

Handy

Already Been Done Crack

Mein Komp

Continental Crust

Cryptic Vision

Bathing Beauty

Start by moving up on a face with a juggy zig zag holds. The jugs turn into slopers and more of a steep slab. You'll get to a roof and do a fun move to get through. Once over the roof its easy climbing to the chains. The second pitch is continues this type of climbing (5.8).

This shares the start of Continental Crust but continues straight up the arete. The arete may seem a bit exposed to some but it's almost impossible to climb above your protection on this one. A couple of "cruxy" moves in the middle spice up the route and as you may have guessed at least one is a mantle.

Fun perfect hand crack on a slab.  Crack peters out, route continues up the slab past 2 bolts to a chain anchor.

Alternate finish to Handy.  The crack is the one to the right of the uppermost bush visible on the face from the base.  There are two options for getting there:

1. From the top of the Hand(y) crack, traverse right, try to avoid getting covered in sap bushwhacking past the pine tree, and head up a dirty, mossy finger crack.  Unpleasant but well protected.

2. From the first bolt on Handy, traverse right and up on 5.7-5.8 dikes and slabs to the crack.  Good climbing but totally unprotected for 30'.

The crack itself is more like a seam with tiny nut placements.

Start on easier climbing up to the first bolt.  Lay back/stem your way up a blob like feature to a just out of reach finger lock.  At the second bolt move back right via a body tension cross through to a sloping dish.  Match that, mantle up, clip 3rd bolt and get a ok rest.  Here comes the fun stuff.  30ft of stemming and slapping, get gear where you can in the seam.  When possible, cut right to the next crack system over and head up over the last crux section.  If you have made it this far, you get a sweet 25ft of dessert crack to the chains

Start as for Mantle Dynamics by pulling the fun mantle move onto the gigantic chicken head. Clip another bolt or two and veer right following the numerous bolts through a series of fun, positive moves in dishes and depressions in the rock.

Near the top, continue on easy third class terrain to the some anchors where you will need two ropes to get down or two raps with one rope using the Mantle Dynamics anchors.

If you don't feel like pushing out through the easy finish or you only have one rope, you can traverse horizontally to the right clipping a lone bolt and the anchors atop the 5.7 hand crack route (Handy) or move left to the anchors for Mantle Dynamics. A single 60m will get you down from either set of alternate anchors.

A bouldery start leads into a moderate traverse. After moving right you end up in a corner / arete where you start to move up. The climbing eases up as you get closer to the chains.

Castle Rocks Gardening Club

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Comp Rock - East Face