Some of the most fun movement on the El Diablo Wall. This is basically the reverse of the Big G', skipping the Kop Killa and Body Count cruxes.

Start on Kop Killa and do the first two bolts. At this point instead of heading into the undercling crux of that route, grab a block with your right hand and make a tricky clip of the Big G' link-up bolt (a sassy drop-knee might be the ticket for making this clip). This is the start of the Little G' crux, which is a V5-6 boulder problem (Moonboard benchmark V3). Work right through the bouldery moves and join Body Count at the third bolt. This is where the Body Count crux ends, you will be on a good right-hand pinch and good left-hand undercling. Do the last two bolts of Body Count, about 13b, and finish on that route's anchor.

Little G'

Old Feller

I'll Take Black

Soul Fission

Power Junkie

Purgatory

The Big G

White Noise

Body Count

Cop Killer

El Diablo

Malvado

Half Acre

San Miguel

Dead Souls

Satanism and Sports

The Gateway

Inferno

Heck

A very bouldery route with some crazy hard undercling moves.

I bolted this for all the wives/husbands, girlfriends/boyfriends and new climbers who get dragged to Hell by their hardman boyfriends/girlfriends, husbands/wives and friends and then have nothing to climb on. This route climbs a corner to a short rightwards traverse to reach the anchor.

Bouldery first couple bolts to an easy top out.

Just to the right of White Noise--a technical and burly line that is rarely attempted and even more rarely finished.

A bouldering route with ridiculously powerful and long moves through the roof section.  Come well armed.

Powerful, pumpy and a wee bit technical. An exciting  leftwards traverse from the second bolt of Gateway takes you into a beautiful shield of rock. Two longer draws on the first two bolts will minimize drag. Some small crimps and a cryptic crossover will get you to the top of this route. A little power endurance won't hurt either.

Link the bottom of Body Count into the undercling crux of Cop Killer.  Bring your power endurance.

A power-endurance testpiece.  A hard start leads to a bad rest on underclings, followed by continuously hard moves on bad slopers to the chains.  Not difficult to do any of the moves individually; hard to put them all together.

This is a great route...and I think an American Fork classic.  I've included this route as modified because I want to play by the rules of this site...and any route with a hold commonly referred to as "The Sika Pocket" is going to have to be suspect.

Anyway, this route is 8 or so routes in from the right on the El Diablo Wall and shares the start with another classic "Malvado" (13a)...ask a local for beta.  Another point of reference is the route "Inferno" (13b), which is one route to the left.

Start with the first bolt pre clipped (don't be confused by the smattering of old bolts...the bomber glue-ins are the only bolts used for this route...unless you're doggin') do a hard move into a left hand undercling, throw up to a pocket...then you're off to the races.  The routes split at their respective third bolts, each clipped from the "sika pocket".  The difficulties end here for "El Diablo"...but many folks pump off on the ensuing 11+ climbing due to the pump and/or nerves associated with doing your first "hard" route.  I'd know...

The grading of this route is settling in around 5.12d.

Please see El Diablo for information on the modified nature of this classic route.

Same start as El Diablo.  At the "Sika Pocket" clip the left bolt, then continue up and a little left to the anchors.

A fun crux on crimpers, underclings and big slopey holds hit you once you depart from "El Diablo".  This route was one of the all time American Fork classics...and may still be.  In July/04 the anchor block fell down (Yikes!), so the future of this route is unknown.  For now, either lower off the last bolt or try to finish left on Inferno, and hope those anchors don't fall off!

Farthest route on the right on the El Diablo wall, with 5 bolts to biners joining two chains at the anchor, expect an early crux with a demanding boulder problem for the grade from the 2nd to 3rd bolt.

Bouldery start that links into El Diablo after the sika pocket. Joins El diablo's final crux.

(AKA Blow of Death)  Consistently hard from the ground to a jug about 15 moves up, Dead Souls starts under the left side of a small roof with precise movement to a mono followed by several shorter moves on small holds including a hard deadpoint to a shallow 2-3 finger box.   The upper half is relatively easy, ending at a 2 bolt anchor at the base of a big notch in the wall.

One route to the left of Inferno.  Climbs up through the right side of the overhanging roof.  Continuously hard moves through the lower section and the upper headwall.

Fun, thin and sustained climbing! Scramble up the easy, albeit scary & crumbling choss pile to gain the 1st bolt (highly recommend stick-clipping the 1st bolt or walking around & up a slight trail that leads to a ledge to the right of the 1st bolt and carefully clipping it. A lot of lose rock has broken off while climbing up to the first bolt. Helmets should be used! After the 1st bolt the rock is solid.)

Traverse slightly to the left after the 1st bolt and up onto the main face. From here the climbing consists of small hold to small hold, with the crux about midway up the climb. Climbing sequentially and thoughtfully will help the climb come together. Very bouldery. If you can climb through the crux & ward off the pump you will find a decent rest a few moves below the anchors.

Solid at 5.12a for the area.

NOTE: In addition to The Gateway there appears to be another route on the left side of the crag (The Gateway is the route on the right side of the cliff) that someone has been putting in. I can't find any info on this climb.

Consistent power-endurance type climbing on slightly overhanging limestone-no real crux move, just a lot of big moves on underclings. As with most Hell routes, there are several obvious holds that have been glued back on, including a huge undercling used to clip the third (?) bolt.

A fun climb with cool moves to surmount a prominent roof.

Easy moves to reach the roof and after the roof to the anchors.

The 5.9- move is at the crux pulling the roof. All the right holds are there if you look around carefully.

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Routes in El Diablo Wall