There are lots of hidden holds and blocky madness on this one.  It will make you think!

Pull the hardest moves getting over small bulge at the first bolt.  Easier but very pumpy climbing leads to a crimpy section on a flat panel of rock.  A few tricky moves gain a crack that leads to the chains.

Pump-a-Lama

Huge-a-thon

Easy Spankin'

Start just left (uphill) of

Pump a Lama

.

There is a shallow, cave-like feature with obvious crack here and there down low. The first bolt can be clipped from the ground, but it is better to stick clip the second bolt. The direct start is hard, and starting just left is more pleasant. Dont worry you got 90 feet of technical, restless 5.12+ climbing to go. There are a couple cruxes. About 20 feet up coming over the lip of the overhanging rock is crimpy and in your face. The second crux is about 60 feet up, and there is a blank wall that is dead vertical with a few crimps on it and almost no feet. The last two bolts are challenging as well and are solid slightly overhanging 5.11 climbing. Towards the top, stay on route. Climbing right onto the arête is not recommended. This climb is hard the hole way with little rest. The draws are hard to hang in the cruxes. It is easy to climb

Pump a Lama

and continue up the extension (Pump a Lamanator) to the Easy Spankin' anchors and then hang the draws.

Historical note: Upper Easy Spankin' originally could of been done by jumping onto 30 Meters of Meatballs or by doing a variation that went right and stayed near the arête. The last bolt of the original right variation is now one of the anchor bolts. It avoids the dirty, runout at the top to the 30 Meters of Meatball anchors.

This route is incredible! It was put up by Cimbing Master Jeff Jackson. Its got to be one of the best 5.12s in the entire Crystal River Valley. The rock is solid and climbing fantastic. (Yes, the hang under it in the Gash is still poor, but efforts are being made to stabilize the belay areas.)

Start uphill just left of

110688805

and 30 Meters from Meatballs. Clip the first two bolts of 30 Meters of Meatballs, and then trend left a few bolts in overhanging, neatly featured rock. You are aiming for a 2-3 inch crack just above you. Hand and fist jam through crack with an exciting little runout to less than vertical rock. You will then enter the crux headwall that is gently overhanging. The crux is spicy just before the last bolt. Save a little gas for the final couple moves to the anchors.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Trifle Wall