This is the obvious line up the middle of the main boulder's south face.  Get to the sloper and then up to a knob to top out.  Landing is good.

Floater aka Center Route

Trail Route

Don't Tell Mom

Man Overboard

[Redacted]

Southeast Arete

Cupcake

Smoker's Paradise Project

Pungase

Left El Jeffe

Chick Power

Chick Floater

Eight Foot Eggshell

This is a center route (floater) variation/contrivance worth mentioning.  It was named by Jeff Russell and possibly FA'd by him around 2000.  Start in two undercling pockets below and slightly to left of the large, sloping rail that center route uses.  Double dyno to sloping rail and then dyno again to chickenhead at lip.  AKA Sister Power.

This is the bolted line on the main boulder. The crux is the initial few moves.

Start on the arete on the northeast side of the main boulder, and climb up the left side of the west face. A fun, little, dynamic move will get you to a nice pocket. This climb has been bouldered/solo'ed, but most would find it prudent to set up a TR using the anchor bolts up top.

This is the overhanging roof on the left that you walk right by if you're heading up the hill to the main wall.

This has a few variations, but basically you start on the left side, and traverse right and under the roof using weird juggy holds. The crux is probably turning the corner and pulling up onto the vertical face.

Once you're established on the face, you can decide to continue to the top, which is pretty sketchy but not too hard, or just call it good enough and come down. Use the standard downclimb if you top out.

Start on the same platform as for

Floater

, and work left through cool hueco and tufa features before you can slap a huge jug and finish up the southeast arete route.

This route felt impossible until I sat there for an hour and really figured out the beta. Then it almost felt trivial. What grade do you call that?

Also who is the real first ascentionist?

You can sit start this. Climb a couple of weird sidepulls, a flat rail, then a pocket to top out.

Start sitting to the right of the

Southeast Arete

problem in the notch between the wall and the rock.  Using the sloping vertical feature to the right and the large bucket hold to the left (same hold the

Southeast Arete

uses for the right hand/heel), work straight up the face.  It has tricky beta moves, and the use of a mono helps.  Moving out left to the arete is off.

On the arete facing the main trail: start standing with the left hand on a good rounded sidepull at chest height and a right hand on/around the arrete.  Climb up and left with difficulty (and some technical trickery) to a good jug, through the 'hole' created by the pungase and cube boulders, and then to a good no-hands rest on the wide ledge below Center Route, which this problem finishes on.

Starting as for

Pungase

(sit) would add some difficulty, but not too much else (aesthetically speaking) to this already interesting line.  Ditto finishing on Sheik Power (which would add considerable difficulty)...

Climb the arete facing the main trail to a good jug ~12 feet up.  It was given V8, but it felt quite soft.  It is probably the best problem at the valley.

This line is just to the right of

Floater

. Start in the higher pod and go right onto a bomber crimper, then match on a single-pad edge before hucking for the lip.  So classic.  Once the linkup from

Pungase

is complete, this would be a great finish!

Jeff and I can't remember who got it first, since the upper crimp has broken a few times in between ascents....

This is a nice variation to

Chick Power

and

Floater

(Center Route). Start as for

Chick Power

, but instead of lunging for the top, deadpoint/lunge for the finger-lock on

Floater

with the left hand, and then either intermediate or lunge with the right hand for the finish of

Chick Power

. If there is another name for this, let me know. This problem was done by myself and others between the time that

Floater

and

Chick Power

went up on the wall. I am not claiming the FA...maybe Ric?

I gave this an arbitrary name, but it is worth having some fun on when you are hanging out or cooling down. Pull left into a human-sized hueco pod. Go up and left again into the enormous, cave-like hueco. Move right, and finish up through good holds above.

Description

Protection

Routes in Main Boulder aka The Wedge