Pass 2 bolts traversing up and left to an awkward rest before the crux on the arete. Then pumpy technical moves will take you to the top from there.

Pseudo Bohemian Hitchiking Youth

Judge Dredd

Wide Crack

Jury Duty

Crack Wall

Sport Wall Face

The Sandbagger

Climb the large crack just to the right of the main set of really rusty bolts on the main rock.  This is a good sustained slightly overhung crack with excellent gear placements, but sketchy rusty top anchors.

This crack is also the start of the rope drag heavy (and dangerous given the condition of the bolts) Bohemian Bypass (5.12c).

Judge Dredd shares the first 5 bolts with Jury Duty before busting out left and up past 4 more bolts for a total of 9 bolts all together.

Jury Duty shares the first 5 bolts with Judge Dredd before continuing straight up to the thin hard pocket crux. Then a short traverse right to the 5.6 crack "Sandbagger" will take you to the top.

First Ascent = Jason Campbell / Jim Thornburg.

Several crack options on this lower wall right of Jury Duty. 2 bolt anchor with rap rings.

This climb is on the steep face on the upper rock above a 4th class gully and above all the moderate crack climbs.  You can place good pro in the crack below the steep face prior to the first bolt.  3 bolts lead you up the steep face.  Small, fingery, face moves up solid rock bring you to the top.

A fun lie-back finish gets the climb 2 stars.

Start in the 5.6 corner/gully, go up loose 4th class, and finish on the clean crack crack right of Jury Duty. Build gear anchor.

Description

Protection

Routes in Main Rock