This route climbs the shallow left facing corner to the south of the Positive Thinking face and Gamesmanship. 

  The entire thing felt a little cruxy and sandbagged. Many of the stances felt tenuous and gear a little difficult. It's a hard lead for a 5.8 climber.

Snake Slide

Chik'n Garbonzo

Munchky Microarete

Karmic Kickback

Gun Control Now

Bloody Mary

Cosmopolitan Wall

7 year itch

Maestro

Foreplay

Casual Observer

Earthly Night

The Snake

Junior Varsity

Pilgrim's Progress

Paralysis

Summer Break

The Gathering

Morning Star

The Snatch

Hang 'Em High

Pandemonium

The Howling

Salad Days

Green Onion

Southern Hospitality p1

Raindance

Home Rule

Menace To Sobriety

God's Grace (Pure and Simple)

Puppies on Edge

Gamesmanship

Raptor's Scream

Keep Off Flake

Varsity

Pillar

Bastard

The Fastest Gun

Certified Raw

Lex Luther

Autumn Flare

Discord

Smallville Left

Phase III

Macho

La Spirale

Thunderhead

Verdon

Cirrhosis

Bushido

Pentecostal

Grapes of Wrath

Calvary Hill

Time Jumpers

Smear Campaign

Ancient of Days

The FM

Air Male

Psychosis

Lost Chance aka The Natural

Arch Crack

Borderline

Cooney-Norton

P.T. Pillar

Shark Week

Firing Line

Sunburst Arete

Ladder

Group Therapy

Under the Influence

The Sting

Son of a Mother

Freedom Flight

C-Tips

Mayflower

Extreme Unction

Psalm 32

Scallion

The Great Dihedral

The Rapture

Static Cling

Ukiah

It Don't Come Easy

Son of Slime

Ragtime

Summer Break is one of the most aesthetic features of the cliff, a gleaming golden and orange bottomless dihedral looming above the approach trail. The route shares a start with Raindance 5.9, a solid mental warm up for what lies above. This route is was is left of Summer Solstice, an offwidth present prior to rockfall. P1 5.12  ~ 120 ft. Climb through Raindance and continue upward wading through low angle terrain moving towards a large roof to the right of the dihedrals entrance. Plug some gear in the roof and blast through a small overlap to gain a wild stance inside the dihedral. Stem your way past 2 bolts, encountering a break in the corner and  mantle to a nice belay ledge.P2  5.11c ~ 50-70 ft. A short but stout continuation of the dihedral. Epic moves lead you to boldery roof sequence protected by a bolt. Pull the roof and gain a small stance with a bolted belay. Stop here or continue 20 ft through easy climbing to a much more comfortable stance. P3  5.10c pg-13 ~ 120 ft. This pitch is WILD. Move past complete and utter choss, to find a pleasantly suburb splitter leading to a bolt and thin cruxy slab slab sequence. Be heads up about this section. This pitch is totally worth doing, classic setup with a real sting in the tail. Will clean up with time, as they say in Vermont.

From The Snake, go about 30' north.  Climb start up some rocky shelves to a small arete', up this to an shallow indent.  Look for a good flake at top(on right side of this is a placement for a .75 C4), make your way to the flake, good feet and hands if you look around.  Traverse left to slabby section and small crack system.  Follow broken finger crack system to it's top where a small layback works well #1-2 C3(crux at the end).  Anchors shared with The Snake.

Climb the first pitch of Earthly Night (5.9+) to a comfortable belay ledge. Pull the crux roof of Earthly Night and continue past the first five bolts to a logical spot where you can exit the corner on an undercling flake and gain a stance out right. Climb the tenuous face and very shallow left facing corner. The climbing is fairly sustained before backing off for the last couple of bolts.

An excellent, challenging route comprised of face climbing and stemming on mostly thin holds.  Scramble up the slope to the base of a chimney in the dike.  Climb the chimney to a stance out right.  Climb up on positive holds to the high first bolt.  Continue up the corner and eventually the arête and face out left to the anchor.  Rap with a single 60m rope.

This is a trad testpiece of technical laybacking and thin crack climbing. It was cleaned up a couple years ago, at least to the anchor described below.

 Stick-clip a bolt, stand on the cheater stones, and make a hard move to gain the straight-up seam. Follow this with multiple cruxes to right-rising horizontal crack. Move right to a fixed anchor.

Paralyzing positioning, sustained climbing, and impeccable rock make this route one of Poke-O's finest vertical jaunts.   

  As you climb, remind yourself that for 15 years, this route stood as the hardest climb in the Adirondacks.   

  Pitch 1:   Begin roughly 100 feet to the right and uphill from Gamesmanship, and roughly 100 feet to the left of The Fastest Gun.  Spot the curving dihedral high on the route (the 2nd pitch), this is what you are aiming for.   

  Climb the broken corner and hand cracks to the left of the corner to a nice belay ledge below the massive, curving dihedral.(Note: You need to build an anchor here). (5.6 / 40 feet) 

  Pitch 2:   The gem of the route.  Climb off the belay ledge and into the dihedral.  Continue up the sustained corner until you reach a welcomed rest mid-pitch.  Aim for the small, left-facing corner.  Gain this and climb it with similar difficulty to a semi-hanging belay at chains. (5.9+ / 110 feet) 

  (NOTE:  MOST PARTIES RAP FROM THE TOP OF THE 2ND PITCHES THE UPPER PITCHES ARE RATHER DIRTY AND LOOSE!!)  

  Pitch 3:   If you want to continue...climb the tight dihedral until easier rock is reached.  Belay here at another small ledge. (5.8 / 80 feet) 

  Pitches 4, 5, and 6   Scramble over some loose, dirty rock to gain the upper pitches of Gamesmanship (5.7 PG/R), or continue out right to meet up with The Fastest Gun (5.10). 

  Descent:   If you plan to go to the top of the cliff.  Use the same rap station as Gamesmanship or The Fastest Gun.  Both require two 60 meter ropes for rappelling.

You'll need a full quiver of trickery to complete this route with grace. 

  Cosmo Wall is a long, intimidating route that enjoys the spoils of what Poko is famous (or should it that be IN-famous?) for:  gear-gobbling cracks and airy, technical face climbing on less-than-vertical terrain.   

  Sounds like a recipe for a four-star route, right?   

  The route starts off the far left end of the Sting Traverse Ledge, essentially to the left of The Positive Thinking ice route.  Follow some unprotected hands and feet (5.8 PG-13) up about 8 feet until you can get your first piece of gear.  Continue up the crack system until a small roof with a dodgey pin below it forces you to use some foot-trickery to surmount it to the left.   

  Place some gear and continue up the pinching crack system until the fingers run out.  Place some gear as high in the crack as you can, then embark on some spicy moves up to a left-facing flake.  Place some units, then step up, gingerly, to the right to reach the first of two bolts.   

  Clip it, then finger traverse out left and up to the second bolt.  Clip that one, then decide if you want to beach whale it over the bulge to the anchors or make some moves out left over semi-manky terrain to ultimately reach the belay ledge.   

  Either way, these last few moves are cruxy, so keep your wits about you.

North end of Snake Ledge, look for a 1/2 pillar.  Climb the left side of the pillar to it's top, spicy topout on this.  Gear to 2" on this section.  The next 30' is bolted.  From the top of the 1/2 pillar, climb up and left into a small finger crack with some spicy friction moves, to a larger crack(crux) to 1 more bolt at the top.  Long anchor built just over the bank for Rap...

Scramble to the top of the block. Climb up from the anchor past three bolts, move left into a shallow corner (RPs), then up past four bolts moving left at the top to finish on Paralysis. 

  Primo balancey face climbing the whole way. Bolts are traditionally spaced.

A good route that is a bit adventurous with a tricky crux.  It is an excellent way to access the pillar pitch of It Don't Come Easy.  It's a bit dirty, but the hard sections are clean enough.  Climb into the right facing corner with two pins and continue to a stance in the dike rock.  Work up and left to a stance below the first bolt.  It is a difficult clip, but there is a good small cam placement right below it.  Weave your way up past another bolt (crux) to a bomber two bolt anchor at the base of the pillar.

For the hidden sport climber in all you trad climbers. 

  Pitch 1:   Casual Observer starts on what looks to be a dirty face roughly 30 feet to the left of the Fastest Gun.  Once on it, however, you will be graced with a technical sequence that leads to a traversing crux directly below the menacing flake/chimney hanging above.   

  Style your way into the chimney and either place a cam and a nut (a blue Alien works well) or brave the secure, but short, runout up to the next bolt out to the left, right before you exit the chimney.   

  Pull out of the chimney on steep and pumpy moves in a positive crack system.  Place a couple small TCUs (blue, yellow, and orange work best) and continue up the less strenuous face to the chain anchors. (5.10- / 90 feet)   

  Many parties stop here and rap, but if you want to continue on... 

  Pitch 2:   Climb up the face on the arete, then trend right into the corner. 

  Make some difficult, but well-protected moves up the corner, until it is possible to step left to a good belay. (5.10+ / 80 feet)  Note:  For this pitch carry a single rack of cams up to a yellow Camalot. 

  Make two rappels to the ground, or carry two ropes and make one, long rappel to the ground.   

One of the new-school lines at Poke-O, and a fine one at that.  This fully bolted route is quintessential dihedral climbing bookended by some of the most rewarding slab/arete climbing on the cliff.  Avoid this route on sunny, summer days, as the black rock and oven-like quality of the corner can melt shoe rubber and make you go blind!!   

  Begin the route by climbing up a 10' blocky corner to the beginning of the first pitch.  Climb the technical arete protected by 5 bolts to a set of chain anchors on a nice belay ledge (5.9+). 

  This next pitch is the crux.  Leave the belay and climb out left over a small, but steep roof using some high steps, a few hidden holds and some muscle.  Continue up the corner past 11 bolts (11b) and an alternate belay ledge to the base of the final pitch ("The Raspberry Pitch") and another set of chain anchors.  

  If asked, some may say the final pitch is the technical crux of the route despite it being a full number grade easier (10b).  Whichever opinion you side with, get ready for some fairly sequential, blunt arete climbing in an airy situation. 

  Finish the route at set of chain anchors.  One 60m rope with three rappels will get you back to the ground.     

The Snake is a fun easy route. The 1st pitch ascends a slab by following ledges to a crack. Go up the crack then step right (crux) to a scoop. Belay at the tree with a rap anchor. Second pitch (5.1) traverses a ledge on the left. You can clip fixed anchors along the way. Go up a corner, (crux)sometimes wet, to a big pine tree. You can rap from here with two 60s. The third pitch wanders left around the corner to an exposed 4th class slab and ends at a manky rap anchor.

Slightly difficult start on black-stained rock. Several options to the left and possibly the right to gain the slab up to the first bolt. Walk the slab up to the second bolt not far away. From there the climb goes more vertical again, yet still slabby. A couple of enjoyable delicate moves bring you up to the anchors.

This climb is past Bloody Mary at the far northern end of the cliff. It follows a right leaning ramp/crack system and then traverses right for a couple hundred feet with a very heady third pitch. One could rap down from the second or third pitch without leaving gear. 

  The first pitch starts at the top of a large block which can be approached from tne north side with some third class. It follows the right leaning ramp/crack system to the overhanging roof that caps this section of the face. From here you traverse right for a pitch to an alcove. Another traversing pitch takes you underneath an airy roof to a good ledge. From here follow the overhanging crack. Although improbable it is not as hard as it looks. Do not try the shallower dihedral up and right. It's not anywhere in the 5.8 range.

A very high quality and adventurous route that links a series of corner systems on the left side of the Big Wall.  A worthy objective and highly recommended.  The hardware has been updated and the route has recently been recleaned by the FA party.  

 P1-Spicy 5.9 face climbing leads to a right facing corner.  Up this to an overlap. Exit left (5.10) to another right facing corner and a belay.

 P2-Climb up to a bolt above the belay beneath a small roof.  Crank over the roof (5.11) and into a right facing corner. Continue up past a bolt into an alcove of sorts and climb over another overlap into a left facing corner beneath a roof. Tiptoe out right and pull the roof into a right facing corner. Desperately climb past a bolt to an improbable stance and the belay (11+).  It's best to continue around the corner, clip a bolt, then downclimb and belay from the p2 anchor of Extreme Unction.

 P3-Climb the right facing corner, eventually stepping left out on to the face.  Climb through the dike rock to belay out right (5.9).

 P4-Climb straight up the face past two bolts to a stance with a third bolt above an overlap. Make a technical traverse left (5.11; pulling harder will get you nowhere) to a left facing corner with a crack. Up the crack through a bulge (5.11) to a stance at a large block. Climb up and right to the belay.

 P5-Climb straight up off the belay to a roof.  A funky sequence exits the left side of the roof to the belay.

 P6-Face climb a lower angle slab to an anchor. Protection has been added to this pitch by the FA party and it is no longer R (5.9).

 Rappel the route with a single rope.

An excellent route on the right side of the Pilgrim Wall that deserves more attention than it gets.  Three very distinct pitches, culminating in a very exposed final section. 

  P1:  Scramble up some ledges to a left facing corner with a crack in it (usually dirty), and move up the corner to a vegetated ledge with a fixed anchor. 5.9 

  P1(alternate):  A better, cleaner start is to climb the first pitch of Earthly Nights.  The start is the same as above, but then climb the bolted arete, trending right towards a belay on a spacious ledge. 5.9+ 

  P2: Either boulder up and right from the original belay or up and left from the Earthly Nights belay and wander up the bolted face, trending left,into a left facing corner.  Fun corner climbing protected by some small gear leads to another 2-bolt belay.  5.10b 

  P3:  Up the crack a few feet, then traverse left about 10 feet.  Head up to a handcrack, protect, and then head up and left into the giant corner.  Up the corner for a bolt or two, then up the finger crack on the left wall.  Climb up the crack with some creative liebacking and stemming, eventually climbing up the sustained face past excellent edges (long reaches) protected by bolts to the top.  5.10d

An absolute classic if not for the first 60 feet of questionable climbing.  Head left around the corner from the Great Dihedral and look for a beautiful left facing dihedral starting 60 feet off the ground. 

  P1. After some dubious, although easy climbing on trap rock, a hollow flake guards the dihedral above (be EXTREMELY carful here - PG13 for rock quality).  Pitch 1 finishes up the dihedral, past a fixed cam, and traverses left to a belay stance and fixed anchor. 5.10a, 110 feet 

  P2 Traverse back right and tackle the overhanging crack on the right wall.  Stemming and an occasional hold in the dihedral keep the climbing at a reasonable grade. 5.10b, 100 feet 

70 feet to the right of the giant Phase 3 off-width, and immediately to the right of a prominent arete (Ladder, 5.7).   

  A short, steep, and crimpy crux bookended by some fun, technical climbing.  Beware of the spiders that live in the crack below the roof!   

  Climb up the right-facing corner below the roof clipping a couple of bolts.  Gain a good horizontal with some large, shaky flakes stuck in it.   

  Clip another bolt and use a high step on a great, ball-like feature to your right and some razor edges for your fingers.  Crank up and into a very shallow corner.  

  Clip a couple more bolts before gaining the positive horizontal relief.  Place some gear and continue up the easier slab above, placing a couple more pieces of gear before reaching the shared chain anchors on a nice ledge.

Pandemonium offers a broad range of climbing styles in three distinct pitches with a noteworthy last pitch. You can approach Pitch 2 by various routes (Puppies on Edge, Hang 'Em High, Group Therapy, or Discord). As well, you could also take P2 of Discord to the ramp system of The Snake and meet up with the third pitch. 

Pitch 1 (5.9): Start 20' right of Group Therapy, next to the large boulder. Work up a bulge to the wide crack. Up the crack then the slab above to easier terrain to the headwall and the bolted anchor. 

Pitch 2 (5.8 PG): Step right from the fixed anchor to the zig-zag finger crack that opens up to an off-width. Climb the crack/off-width up to a vegetated section of the cliff and climb a short right-facing corner until you reach a short headwall with a mass of vegetation on your left. Step 10' left through the vegetation and climb up sparsely protected face climbing following the weakness up to the low-angle ramp of The Snake. Move left to the large pine tree with a fixed anchor. 

Pitch 3 (5.10b): Move right ~15 feet to the groove with a low bolt. Work up the groove passing two bolts to a stance below the overhanging corner (potential 3-4" piece). Climb the overhanging corner (potentially wet) past a bolt (also small TCU placement) and then gain the ledge below the arete. Work left to a stance and a bolt. Work up the face (crux) to three more bolts, past two horizontals. At the last bolt (second horizontal) step right and climb the arete to the slab, and then to the top.

Steep, intricate, footwork-intensive climbing up a thin corner. Generally good clipping stances. 

Varied climbing on holds which get progressively smaller as you go.  Start in the open book and climb to a thin crack  which forms as the corner disappears. Layback the crack until it seams out and forces you to crimp on small painful edges.  Crank some thin moves (ie don't break a nail) up and right to good holds.  Up some easier climbing clipping a widely spaced bolt. Head left to the anchor atop the Howling.  The first 5.13 in the park!

(I haven't heard of anyone doing the second pitch, so I've just described the increasingly popular 1st pitch.) 

  Start by either grappling with the awkward/slippery corner, or climb the face by bearhugging the arete and face holds.  Gain the small, sloping ledge,make a few "heads up" moves to the left, accessing the right-facing corner, then take this, for about 70 feet, to the fixed anchor.   

  Enroute, you'll encounter some fairly loose and hollow sounding flakes.  Take some precaution here, as some of these may be more brittle than you think!

I can't speak for pitch 3(12R),but pitch 1 of this route using the 11c variation is incredible. The variation bypasses what looks like a arduous indirect line by combining both pitches via a bolted bulge,into a long, direct, and very demanding pitch. A great mix of steep finger cracks, and balancy face climbing at the bolts makes this an absolute classic. The fingercrack above the bulge is relentless.

An okay pitch worth doing if in the area and is also used to access the Summer Break corner.  Climb a left facing corner with some scoops on the left.  Clip the bolt and layback up an edge to reach the dike.  Walk left to the Ukiah  anchor or continue up Summer Break.

Technical slab climbing on small holds. Slightly wandering route. Pretty obvious crux near the top of the first pitch (5.10a). The first pitch is much cleaner and (I think) better movement. The second pitch (5.10b) is more chossy and gets less traffic. Still worth it though. You can combine both pitches into one long megapitch.

Poke-O is known for many aspects of climbing, but one in particular stands out for many climbers:  Technical (read: Off-vertical) face climbing.   

  This route adds a more direct start to Cirrhosis, AND a full number grade of difficulty harder. 

  7 bolts protect the anchors and the end to a very thin and breath-taking route up a sheer, black face.   

  Start by mantling onto a shelf, then continue up the wall passing the crux at about 2/3 height.  There are several spots along the climb where the climber will be making somewhat tenuous moves above bolts. So come armed with your vertical dancing shoes, and be sure to keep your wits together for this tremendous affair of the steep.

God's Grace is an excellent corner climb.  It's currently a bit dirty, but it doesn't impact the climbing too much.  There is a second pitch which is not described here. Consult volume 1 of the guide for more information.

 Climb up in to the right facing corner and work left across the face to the arete.  Pull over an overlap and re-enter the corner.  Continue up a discontinuous finger crack to an anchor.

With plentiful gear opportunities, sound rock quality and exciting moves, Puppies on Edge is one of the most accessible and enjoyable routes at the grade (and there aren't many!) at Poke-O.   

  POE starts up the large left-facing corner, then breaks diagonally right across the face to the arete.  Continue up, then around the arete to the lower-angled face above.  Finish at the fixed anchor on the comfortable ledge.

Gamesmanship is one of Poke-O's oldest and finest routes.   

  Begin the route in the right hand of two handcracks behind a nice, large birch tree.  

  Pitch 1:    Technically, the route's crux is the first 15 feet of climbing and consists of insecure (read: slippery) jams in a fist-size crack.  Once past this section, expect endless jamming in an impeccable crack to a bolted anchor. (5.8+ / 140 feet) 

  Pitch 2:   Continue up the left-facing corner above and belay at the dike on a comfortable ledge. (5.7 / 120 feet) 

  Pitch 3:   Easy does it up the broken rock above until it is possible to trend right up less-than-vertical rock to clump of trees on a spacious ledge below a left-facing corner. (5.4R / 100 feet) 

  Pitch 4:   A great pitch.  Move out right and climb a pure handcrack that slices through the airy face above.  The crack will end, but continue up much easier terrain to a lone white birch tree on a small, but comfortable belay ledge. (5.7+ / 140 feet) 

  Pitch 5:   A pitch of much less difficulty leads up the clean, open slab above to the top.  Belay at the trees.  (5.1R / 150 feet) 

  Getting Down:   From the top of the route look down and to the right.  There is an island of trees at the cliff's edge with a slung tree to rap the route.  Walk across and down the open slab to the trees.  3 rappels with two 60 meter ropes will deposit you on the ground.

Start up the corner with  powerful and sharp climbing. Move onto the arete and continue up (careful on the fragile jug which has been glued) to the face above.  The climbing eases breifly and then up the desperate slab crux to a short finger crack which ends on a ledge with a two bolt anchor.

Keep Off Flake was a decades old problem that first received attention in the late 70s and stood idle for many years. It climbs an attractive right arching flake and corner system featuring excellent climbing on good rock.P1-Wander in from the right on 4th class/easy 5th class terrain to the top of a block. Climb the face past a bolt to a comfortable ledge; gear belay. 5.10- PGP2-Climb the right facing flake to a stance on an edge. Undercling right, then up the corner to a stance. Continue up the corner, then undercling right with increasing challenges to a difficult stance below the final corner. Climb the corner (RPs, 2nd to last bolt on In Vivo) to the top and a fixed anchor. Rappel with double ropes. 5.12 PG

Bouldery start (PG) then a slabby section (5.4R). Lawyer/Haas Adirondack Rock guidebook mentions a bolt 3/4 up  the route but I did not see it. 

  Bolted anchor at the top on "Snake's Ledge"

This pillar has a fun route on either side of the it. Both routes are about the same difficulty, though I think the route on the right side is slightly harder and more sustained.   

  Right side: Climb into crack in the corner and follow it up to the top(hands and offwidth.) The crack features satisfying jams and can also be lie-backed. I found the crux to be near the middle of the pillar, though the route is fairly sustained until the top 10 feet.  

  Left side: Climb on the left side of the pillar, using the crack in the corner in combination with good ledges and jugs further to the left. The difficult moves are broken by rests on big holds.

Some really great thin face climbing, Start off under the roof and exit it by the left, head diagonal right to the horizontal slots and now go straight up pretty much inline with the bolt. 

  About 5.10 up to just over the bolt where the going gets quite harder.

As stated by Don Mellor in his comprehensive guidebook to the adirondacks: "Taken separately, each pitch of this route would be considered among Poke-O's best. Linked together they create an experience that seems too good to be in the East."The Fastest Gun epitomizes all that climbing at Poke-O is about: In-your-face climbing from top to bottom with dizzying exposure, airy belay stances, and a short, but mandatory runout above small gear. This route is not only a classic Adirondack climb, but a route worthy of coast to coast notoriety.Pitch 1:Begin this route at a big right-facing flake with an off-width starting at about 15' off the ground. grunt your way up the layback flake, slam a #4 Camalot in the off-width and figure out how to get yourself to the top of the off-width below the first roof.place a Camalot under the roof, undercling and jam your way around this strenuous section until some feet can be had off to your right. Take a quick rest, then finish up the jamming/layback section to the slung blocks. Step left and continue over to the left below the double crack system running vertically above you. (100')Pitch 2:Follow the seemingly endless twin cracks above you to a small roof. Pull this, then continue above the broken dike, climbing slightly to the left to a ledge. (140')Pitch 3:A bolt marks the third pitch. Climb off the ledge to a thin crack on your right. Pass the 1/4 inch bolt at a hard move, then place some small gear, and run it out (5.6ish, but heady) to the large left-facing corner capped by a roof. (160')Pitch 4:The roof move. A series of hard moves gets you to the base of the corner. Crank your way up and left over the roof past some loose flakes, and then climb up to the top of the cliff and anchor. (150')Well done!

Beautiful corner with excellent gear the whole way. Tricky moves at mid height over small ceiling. Cool finish up wide flake at the top adds to the fun.

Boulder up to a horizontal and your first gear.  Work your way up right past 4 bolts and then join Time Jumpers to the top.

Climb directly up the middle of the Pillar.  Start on the left side of the Pillar and make some moves onto the face then strenuous lieback off the right side then transfer into a crack appears in the middle of the face about 40' up.

Start off of Earthquake Boulder.  There is an obvious crack system but the "face" moves are just as easy.P1 Climb a flake and some easy face moves to a tree on the belay for Puppies on Edge. 75'P2 Ascend a right facing corner into another flake.  Use the right side of the flake which becomes a right facing block to a fixed anchor. 110'P3 Traverse to a tree and climb another right facing corner.  120'

Climb the slab just to the left of the arete last 3 bolts up to the ledge.  You’ll reach a ledge with the anchors for Smallville right.  Continue up on the right side of the arete.  Either walk across the top or hand traverse (highly contrived but fun) to the anchor.

Big, mean, and foreboding--Phase III delivers the goods in one nasty pitch of body-thrutching hatred.  Put on your ratty dungarees, tape up, and send. 

  Phase III begins to the right of Son of a Mother in the obvious off-width crack, and continues for 90 feet in the same crack.  The crux comes--like many routes on this cliff--at about 2/3 height.  It involves moving through an overhanging corner sans discernible feet. 

  Finish up easier terrain to chain anchors.         

  Mother's Day Variation (5.9+, PG): Once at the first roof, Climb through the roof via the right-facing flake and continue up the flake of "Son of a Mother."

During the 1980s, Montreal climber, Julien Dery, brought to Poke-O-Moonshine a modern approach to rock climbing.  This cornucopia of a thin finger "crack", balancy face climbing, and small, well-spaced gear make this route an instant Adirondack classic. 

  Start the route on the main face of the P.T. Pillar, climbing up through several slopey ledges to gain the first of a series of hard moves protected by two bolts (a third bolt is missing its hanger).  Gain the vertical fissure and make some wild moves up the crack, involving some high stepping on "nothing smears", and a few Hail Mary stabs to the credit card edges of the finger crack.   

  The route eases off about 10 feet from the top where some larger incuts are reached, and the angle lessens noticably to less than vertical.

A superb pitch. Le Spirale climbs a striking blunt arete before changing character abruptly in the last 15' or so, where one encounters a brief section of thuggish (i.e, very fun) wide fist to hands. It is this combination of delicate face and steep crack that makes the pitch so good.

 P1: Climb the arete and faces on either side, past 2 crux thin sections, before joining the Thunderhead crack system for a memorable finish. While the hard moves are well protected, some spicy climbing will be encountered on easier ground. There is 5.8ish climbing where a fall would be problematic.

What is described here is a linkup of La Spirale  into pitch two of Thunderhead.  This avoids an uncomfortable belay, incorporates the crux of p1 of Thunderhead, and makes for an excellent, long, and varied pitch.  For a pitch one description of Thunderhead consult "Adirondack Rock". 

  Climb La Spirale  to its end passing the shared p1 anchor with Thunderhead to a stance under the imposing roof (5.11-).  Jam your way out the overhanging crack starting with fists, then hands with good gear and work your to a stance on the face above.  Tiptoe your way to the Calamine Ledge.  Walk climbers right to the Cirrhosis anchor and descend with two ropes.

Excellent, sustained, thin, off-vertical face climbing. 

In just two pitches of climbing, you will be treated to thoughtful face/groove climbing, and some of the most strenuous and technical corner/crack climbing at the grade on the cliff.  The second pitch makes this route an instant Dacks classic.  

  1st Pitch:     Eyeball the bolt that sits about 20 feet up the wall below an incipient crack and groove.  "Easy-does-it" climbing up to the bolt, then charge your way for the nice, flat belay ledge. (5.8, 75 feet)   

  2nd Pitch:   Move out to the right to gain the nice, big flake.  Master the demanding flake by using what would seem to be an illogical method of upward progression, then belay off to the left on a nice belay ledge.  (5.9+++, 75 feet)

The only feasible looking line on the Waterfall Wall. 

  Pitch 1 (5.10c): Climb up cracks to anchors. Stock up on small nuts for the exciting finish. Fixed anchor on the ledge. 

  Pitch 2 (5.11c): Stem and face climb the corner to the top.

Edges and crimps the entire way. Not a hold larger than half a pad. Fabulous Poke-O climbing. 

 Cleaned of considerable moss and lichen in June, 2020. 

From the right end of the ledge 10' up Green Onion, climb up a left rising weakness aiming for a high bolt at an obvious overlap. A hideously loose 2' square flake is passed along the way. This section is 5.8 or 5.9ish, protected with marginal gear (shallow RPs or something similar), and requires care. It is very difficult to avoid the loose flake completely on the way to the first bolt. Tread lightly and don't fall! The reward is a long, sustained stretch of impeccable Poko face climbing with a hard, puzzling, and very thin crux, plus loads of fine 5.10 climbing to top it off. After the dangerous flake, the moves are superb and the protection good.

Only pitch one is described here.  Pitch two is currently overgrown and not recommended.  Pitch two is reportedly excellent, but will need extensive cleaning. 

  A sustained test piece of thin, just off vertical face climbing linking a few discernable features up an otherwise blank looking face.  The difficult sections are bolted and well protected.  Boulder up to a stance and the first bolt.  Technical cranking past bolt two leads to another stance.  Continue up the face passing a couple more cruxy sections to a bolt anchor in the dike.

Balance face climbing up to a bolt and then left to a finger crack (1st Crux).  Climb past 2 more bolts (2nd crux) and then easier rock to a final hand crack.

A hard boulder move off the ground (5.10, shorter climbers just might find this the crux) reaches the bolt and the crack. Traverse the crack out right (good gear and jams), then step easily up onto the face below the line of bolts. Now the climbing changes dramatically-negotiate the steep slab using rounded/slopey holds that are atypical for Poke-O. The line wanders a bit, and the easiest line is not a straight path between bolts. The guide describes the grade as "still debated between 10b and hard 11".   I'll split the difference-definitely not 10b, but choose the right line and no way is it hard 11...

P1: Climb the easy ramp to gain a short, steep crack. Up this(thin 5.9 G) to a ledge. Continue straight up some easy chimney moves to a belay ledge. With good rope management this pitch can be combined with the next.

 P2: Continue up the chimney above which has good cracks for gear, and some fun moves towards the top. Belay on a good ledge with trees. 5.8

 P3: Follow the thin incipient crack up and just slightly left for about 150'. This pitch is fairly sustained with intricate balancy moves. The gear is small but bomber. Belay at one of two sets of bolts at the base of the large heavily-vegetated dike. 5.9 G/PG

 P4: This pitch takes a little imagination to enjoy, because of its dirty/overgrown nature and the blocks toward the end. There is some good climbing nevertheless. From the bolts, climb up and a little left and then back right through bushes and dirty rock. After about 60' the rock get's a little cleaner and less vegetated but becomes more difficult. Aim for a vague R-facing corner above the dike and below the prow that breaks through roofs at the top of the wall. Climb in or near the corner and then up through questionable/scary blocks to a belay stance under the roofs. Here you can see the obvious bolts of the last pitch leading out to the left. 5.9+ PG 190' the way we did it.

 P5: A short pitch follows bolts traversing left under the huge roof and around the lip to rap bolts at a stance on the slab. I placed a #1 and yellow alien on this pitch, but I wouldn't say they were necessary. 5.10b 30'

 Descent: Rappel with two ropes to the lower of the bolted stances below the dike(bottom of pitch 4.) One more rap just barely makes it to the ground with 2x8.5mm ropes.

Pitch 1 (5.7 G 60'): Start up the back of the depression and ascend a crack system that leads to a small overhang. Bypass this to the right, via a hand crack in a short left-facing corner which leads to a pleasant belay ledge with a 2-bolt anchor. 

Pitch 2 (5.7+ PG 100'): Gain the foot ledge 10' above the belay ledge and traverse to the shallow right-facing corner (pro). Traverse left out of the corner (crux, worse for second) to a series of right-facing corners. Follow the weakness up past a couple fixed pins, keeping an eye climber's left for a spacious belay ledge with a 2-bolt anchor. 

Pitch 3 (5.7 R 50'): Make committing, unprotected moves off the ledge using the right-facing corner/arete to a small stance with an opportunity to get some solid gear (RPs, small stoppers). Move right to  gain a low-angle ramp system (good gear) and follow this to the large right-facing corner/v-slot to the right of the large roof and a disconcerting fixed anchor (a nest of crap on a slung feature, an old ring piton, and a solid bolt). Beware, loose rock at the fixed anchor. 

(Pitch 4: 5.7 PG 100'): Climb the right-facing corner/v-slot (past some fixed pins) until a very obvious traverse presents itself. Traverse left 15' to the blunt arete (keep eyes open for a fixed pin around the arete). Follow a good series of large edges to the top and a fixed anchor on a tree. Beware, loose rock on this pitch. You can position your belayer under the roof with a little planning at the P3 belay.

Air Male is the quintessential Poke-O Face climb. Razor-sharp credit card edges, lock-offs and smeary feet punctuate this otherwise blank and imposing face. 

  Start 8 feet to the left of the "Son of a Mother" chimney start on a grooved face.  Climb practically directly up from here encountering some of the most painful crimps and unlikely foot edges you've ever seen.   

  The route eases for a short moment before encountering the upper overhanging slab protected by 2 bolts and on up to the shared anchor with "Son of a Mother".   

An adventurous tour of the left end of the Main Face with a fierce layback crux and an exciting traverse marred by loose rock, vegetation and a dirty last pitch. 

NOTE: Pitch 1 starts on The Snake Ledge, which is accessed by climbing P1 of The Snake. 

Pitch 1 (5.9 - 50ft): The physical crux of the climb. Start off the Snake Ledge at the block with a stacked block on top beneath the obvious 50 leaning corner with a small stance 1/3 of the way up. Boulder up the initial section to a small stance on the small ledge and lock in to push through the sustained remainder to the thank you climbing gods ledge. Belay with gear in the crack and an optional bolt. It is also possible to continue up and left to the bolts above Firing Line (5.11b) to descend to the ground with two ropes, descend to the Snake Ledge with a single rope, or to set a top rope. 

Pitch 2 (5.7 - 100ft): Follow the crack up the ramp around and past a higher angle step (crux) to a good gear belay in dike rock beneath the large roof. 

Pitch 3 (5.8 - 100ft): The psychological crux. Traverse a few feet right of the belay and step up on to a small, discontinuous but good ledge system that traverses right in orange dike rock (loose, be on your toes) past a manky old piton. Make thin technical moves rightward on the ledge system to a stance on a good ledge in a shallow flared groove/corner. Have fun enjoying the process of sussing out the sequence to make the crux moves around the blunt arete onto the shoulder-height ledge on the other side. Continue up and right through the unpleasant jungle of vegetation to a set of two corners (the left-most hidden by vegetation) and build a gear belay. A better stance is available 15 feet to the right below a roof, but watch the very loose dike rock you have to step around. 

Pitch 4 (5.6 PG/R - 100ft): An unfortunate price to pay for 2.5 pretty decent pitches below. Climb the second (right-most) of the two corners (the cleanest) and step left onto the face/ramp system. Trend up and left on the ramp to a shallow right-facing corner and punch up onto slabs (read as dirt, grass, and dead tree limbs) for 30-40 feet of oddly unnerving uphill walking to the trees.

This is the left-hand route going up the Neurosis' black water streak. Hard climbing past two high bolts up to a discontinuous thin finger crack. Finish on a ledge with a bolted anchor shared with the following route.

Though this is often thought as a variation to pitch 2 of Pilgrim's Progress and Mayflower, I thought this pitch to be good enough to warrant a separate entry.   

  Climb the 1st pitch of Mayflower or Pilgrim's Progress to the comfortable ledge with a chain anchor.  Climb out right passing the vertical hand crack in black rock (pitch 2 of Snow Blue 10a R).  Continue slightly up right, clipping the the actual anchor for Pilgrim's Progress and the two bolts at the arrowhead flake.  Climb up and into the undercling flake.  Continue underclinging back across left with poor feet, but great gear.  Clip a high bolt above the flake, and upon reaching the end, move into the broken left-facing corner (shared with the end of Mayflower's 2nd pitch--5.9+) and a rest.  A manky old pin and a solid nut placement protect the final, funky moves to the chain anchors above.

This description is only for the FIRST pitch.  There is a second pitch, which, judging by its current state of filth, doesn't get done too often.   

  The first pitch is excellent and tricky, with great protection where needed.  It, along with Foreplay, is also a nice way to access the pillar pitch of It Don't Come Easy. 

  Clip a bolt low to the ground, then move through a difficult boulder problem to easier ground.  Meander up, straying left a bit at times, through easier terrain to a right facing corner at the top of the dike rock.  Make the crux stand-up move, then follow the superb face and crack to the top and a 2 bolt anchor.  5.11

I only did P1 but the climb continues for 2 more pitches.   The route is not nearly as dirty as it looks. In fact it was remarkably clean. 

  P1: Climb up unprotected but easy and get established between two opposing corners. Hard stemming past a pin. Continue until it's possible to move up and right through a series of slashes. Make an unprotected foot traverse right, into a left facing corner. Climb up to first bolt, back left to second bolt. Now you have a choice. Hard move left to a filthy but easy corner or slightly harder moves straight up with lessening difficulty as you get closer to the bolted belay. 150'.

P.T. (Positive Thinking) Pillar is about as awkward a climb as you're going to get on Poke-O.  From the insecure jamsand smeary feet up the flaring left-facing corner, to the sub-optimal pro, to the overall thuggish nature of it, P.T. Pillar is, most assuredly, not for everyone.   

  That being said, if you want to test your mental grit, intestinal fortitude, AND get a taste of what a healthy dose of Adirondack sandbagging feels like, then this is the route for you.   

  Start the route by scampering up the blocky base of the massive left-facing corner of the pillar of rock that stands tall to the right of the Positive Thinking winter ice flow.  Get into the corner and grovel, thrutch, and burn rubber on the steep and awkward corner, passing a roof crux at about mid-height.   

  Finish the route on some sustained terrain that takes you to the top of the pillar and chain anchors.   

  (Note: This route is also the "quickest" way to set up a TR on "Macho").   

  Fun, eh?

A sweet line up one of the coolest faces in the East. Shark Week follows an excellent crack system up aretes, steep slabs, and a huge roof. The climbing is well protected by Poke-O standards, technical, and a ton of fun. As of this writing, the climb is definitely a bit dirty, but everything is solid and clean where it needs to be. The bolts, though weathered, appear to be in good condition. A good scrubbing (or more ascents!) would make this a truly pleasant outing. Get on it!P1: Up the nice corner to a small triangular roof. Power out of this and make your way to a seam just right of the arete. Climb this, clipping two pitons on your way up. Reach a good stance below a blank bulge (2 bolts, crux) and bust a reachy boulder problem to a nice finger crack. Bolted anchor at poor stance on the left. .11c 90'P2: Step back into the finger crack for 20', then move left passing a bolt to another finger crack and follow this through a bush to a bolt on a steep slab. Crimp and balance your way up a tricky face passing two more bolts, to a final funky move right onto a sloping ledge. Scramble up to nice ledge and a bolted anchor. .10d 90'P3: Easier cracks head up to a wedged block beneath an imposing roof, passing two bolts. Then, traverse under roof with good hands and feet (3 bolts), admiring the huge spiders dangling above your head. Make an exposed step left around the arete to a nice small ledge and bolted anchor. .8 40'P4: Follow a pleasant, low angle crack to a bolted anchor at a small ledge beneath a thin crack in a headwall. .7 100'P5: Find a way to the first bolt on the headwall, then establish yourself in an excellent finger crack. Climb this until it disappears and commit on smeary moves over small gear to reach a bolt. Bust a a couple more moves above the bolt then scramble up to slung tree at the top. .11a 100'( Fastest Shark, 5.10d, is an excellent and pumpy alternate start to Shark Week - Start up the Fastest Gun corner, traverse right under the roof above and then up to the finger crack to the bolted anchor as described in Shark Week's P1 description) Descent: Rap with two 60m ropes. A 70m would probably work if not doing the last pitch (which would be a shame). One could also walk climbers left to the gamesmanship rap line.

Start up a vertical crack and easy friction (1st pitch of The Snake) to a nice belay ledge. 75ft.(5.4). Cruise up unprotected 5.8 face climbing to the base of the obvious towering left facing corner. Stem up the dihedral with good protection to it's top.

Pitch 1: Sunburst Arete starts up a wide crack to the top of a pedestal on the left of the arete itself.  Once there continue up on the left of the arete from good rest ledge to good rest ledge.  At about 2/3 height move out right around the arete for a  few moves before swinging back left across the arete again.  Now finish straight up to a spacious belay ledge.  (100') 

  Pitch 2:  Above the ledge you run into a 4 inch crack, that tapers into a hand crack.  At the top of this move left under a roof.  Pass above the roof on the left side to a grassy ledge and slung block rap anchors to the right. (80')   

  From here, a two rope rappel will bring you back to the ground, or you can continue above meeting up with the last two pitches of paralysis.

Starts on top of a sloping boulder and goes straight up a shallow corner for about 60 feet to a ledge with a weak tree on it. A few stemming moves about half way up this section help the ascent. Move left at the ledge and then look up to find a shallow and short chimney with a nice crack for your right hand.  There's an old piece of pro lodged at the top of the chimney. One last move gets you up on a slab where the anchors await.

This is a good route to do while waiting for some of the classics in the area to free up.  It combines balancy moves with some so-so gear.   

  Begin in the flaired open book.  Climb straight up, clip a bolt, then head out left a hair (short but thoughtful crux), gaining the broken slot that takes some good gear (the rock is a little hollow, though).  Clear the small bulge, pulling onto the slab above.  Continue up the easy slab above to the shared chain anchors for the adjacent two routes.

Fun climbing with a mix of styles to keep it interesting all the way to the top.  Move up on detached blocks and suspect rock (careful) to the first bolt.  Follow bolts into a shallow groove/corner and follow this up to a small roof.  Surmount the roof using the crack (good gear) and follow more bolts up the face.  Then move into a thin crack/seam and follow it (crux) to the trees.  The anchor at the top was a nasty bit of old webbing on a nasty little tree (partly dead).  We left a cord with beaners on a larger tree a bit further from the edge.  

This is a stellar route!  The Sting climbs an independent line immediately to the left of the beginning hand crack of Gamesmanship.   

  The climber has a choice to either begin the first 6 feet of Gamesmanship and step to the left trending crack of the Sting, or alternately and possibly a little harder, one can begin on small crimps directly below the beginning of the left-angling crack.  Despite the chosen launching off point, you will encounter a tricky traverse followed by mitt-swallowing jams up a tremendous crack.  You'll encounter a very brief off-hands section; however, a couple of #3 Camalots can help ease off-width-itis.   

  The route ends on the Sting Traverse Ledge at a bolted anchor threaded with some webbing and quick links.  (Note:  This anchor should be replaced!)

Son of a Mother is a new, safe variation on a couple older, more obscure lines at Poke-O.  This route is one hell of a find! 

  On the far left end of the cliff, about 300 feet to the left of the large apron slab, are several great climbs.  Locate the large right-facing off-width of Phase 3.  SOAM, climbs the shallow open book immediately to the left of it.   

  Gain the open book, by chimneying up some not-so-demanding rock, then step left around a small roof.  Some technical foot work and good, but hidden, horizontal reliefs will get you to the first bolt.   

  Clip it, then figure out the sequence (it involves a small but positive high left hand and foot combination).   

  Gain the "bucket" out to your right, and clip another bolt.  Milk the small rest, then continue up and into the amazing, overhanging flake system to the chain anchors over the bulge at the top.   

The first 5.10 at Poke-O and a classic climb. Combining a long technical traverse with a discontinuous vertical crack. 

  Start by climbing The Snake(5.4). Walk to the far right of the ledge (careful some easy exposed moves) to a bolted anchor. 

  P1: 5.10b G 130'   A long technical traverse right. Follow the dike past a poison ivy bush to a first set of anchors [Deuteronomy 5.11b]. Keep going right until you see two bolts rising up and right to the upper dike [crux]. Once at the good holds of the upper dike move right to a somewhat thrilling section [small gear]. Pass another bolt before finally reaching the bolted rap anchor. The line of bolts above are for [No Higher Authority  5.11d G 110'].   Rappel from here with doubles to the ground or with a single rope to the top anchors of The Howling (climbers left). 

  P2: 5.10a PG (5.7 X) 150'   Head out right to a left side of a large, detached and flexing flake. Climb up (5.7 X) to the top to find an old rusted 1/4" bolt. (There is gear everywhere but the flake is highly suspect. Especially in the middle.) Gain a shallow discontinuous crack and follow it to the top, where you'll find bolted rap anchors.    Most parties rap from here. A single 70m rope gets you to the P1 anchors... Just barely. Tie knots!!! 

  P3: 5.6 R 140'   Continue up the crack, then left along a slab to the final exit corner. 

  Walk off left to descent gully.

A great route on nice rock that ascends a steep face just right of a black streak.  From the ledge carefully climb up the slab to the first bolt.  The line weaves gently right and then back left to the anchor.  There is a two bolt anchor on the ledge for the belayer.

The first pitch is very popular, but unfortunately, the rest is a mystery to most.  If the top pitch of this otherwise fun climb would clean up, it might be worthy of 4 stars.  Like most or the other routes on the Pilgrim Wall, three very different pitches, with an exposed, final hanging corner.  DO IT! 

  P1:  Up the face, trending right past many bolts, aiming for a crack.  Follow the crack (5.7) up to a beautiful ledge with a 2 bolt anchor. 5.10c 

  P2: Move left off the belay into a left facing corner with a crack.  Follow the crack and face up to a lone bolt below another left facing shallow corner.  Protect well with smallish gear, make some pumpy moves, and gain a small ledge with a 2 bolt anchor.  5.9+ 

  P3:  Beautiful moves up and right, passing bolts, aiming for the hanging corner above.  Make a hard entry move into the corner, and then stem and face climb your way up the corner (dirty), with small stoppers as protection, to a grassy ledge with another 2 bolt anchor.  5.10c 

Extreme Unction climbs the first set of corners right of The Gathering and finishes on a steep, thin face. Both pitches are good, particularly the second.Pitch 1 5.7  Climb through the dike to a right facing corner which starts 20 feet up. Climb up the corner, then left a few feet to another right facing corner. Continue up and eventually step left to a bolted belay on a sloping ledge.Pitch 2 5.12-  Climb the corner and face past two bolts. Eventually reach a short crack which leads in to a left facing corner. Up this to a good stance.  Weave right across the face, then back left, and lastly straight up past bolts to a comfortable ledge and bolted belay.You can continue up The Gathering or rappel. A 70m rope gets you down with 5-10 feet of easy scrambling. The first pitch belay is not equipped for rappel.

As of the printing of the Don Mellor guidebook, this route has yet to see a first free ascent.  That was in 2001.  Considering all of the activity on Poke-O since then, it is hard to believe this route remains constant with one point of aid. 

  Then again, it is Poke-O. 

  Psalm 32--the song of forgiveness--is the tremendous, plumb line right of Southern Hospitality (5.11+) that snakes its' way up the cliff using incipient cracks, thin faces and corners. 

  Pitch 1:   Follow the crack in the vertical dike up to a series of bolts and a balancy crux sequence.  Belay at bolts out right on a ledge under an ominous roof. 5.11+ / 60 feet 

  Pitch 2:   Crank up past the roof on the left and follow a tight line of bolts up a technically baffling face to another bolted belay on a small ledge. 5.12a/b / 90 feet 

  Pitch 3:   Follow the obvious right-facing corner to a point where the holds and free climbing runs out.  Use bolts and aid technique to reach the anchor.  (Note: There is a section of about 15 feet of aid to reach the anchor.) 5.12+, A0 / 100 feet

Because this route is so close to many of the classic lines at Poke-O, it is often over-looked.  Don't miss this one! 

  Scallion is a full- value route.  It involves some unprotected, but relatively easy climbing (5.6 R) to begin the route, some Houdini corner moves protected by two bolts, then some of the finest moderate crack climbing on the cliff. 

  If you are shorter than 5.7, the moves entering the corner and clipping the first bolt may feel a little difficult, so be thoughtful.  However, a truck green Camalot placement in a horizontal below the right-facing corner helps ease off some of the jitters. 

  The route ends at a bolt anchor.

The obvious right facing dihedral that starts about 100 ft. off the ground. P1 starts by climbing cracks and blocks to a belay below the roof that is the base of the corner 5.8 (an uninteresting pitch) 100 ft. P2 climb up from the belay into the roof/chimney and then make a weird move back down and to the right to get established in the corner. Climb the beautiful dihedral (fingers, hands, stemming, a little OW ) for 150 ft. Maybe the best 5.9 pitch in the Adirondacks with excellent pro. P3 look for a bolt directly above then climb out right about 15 ft. then back left to clip the bolt then wander to the top looking for gear placements 5.8 pg13. A committing lead that is seldom done. Most parties rap from anchors at the top of the corner.

A fingertip-ripping pitch of technical face climbing.   

  Though somewhat marred by its proximity to the first pitch of Pilgrim's Progress, The Rapture is an amazing test of footwork, finger strength and route finding.   

  Tic-Tac your way up the face immediately to the left of Pilgrim's Progress until it is possible to reach the fractured crack system shared with the last 15 feet of Mayflower.   

  Though I have not led this yet, this will most definitely be a safe lead.

Fun, dynamic climbing through some alarmingly hollow rock makes for quite a memorable experience.  I recall the pucker effect was fairly high the first time I did this route some years ago.     

  Located roughly 100 feet left of the huge off-width of Phase III in an dirty alcove.   

  Climb out (placing an optional small piece of gear before the first bolt can be done, though it's not necessary) of the alcove clipping bolts, and taking care to check each hold while heading left along a right-facing ramp/corner.  Gain an awkward rest on a small shelf below a bizarre roof.  Clip a bolt then head out over the roof, taking care NOT to pull off any of the wafer-thin flakes you're pulling on.  Gain a short crack before the anchor, place a small TCU then gun it to the chains.   

  Good, right?

A nice, short climb which can also be used as an alternate start to Summer Break.  Boulder up to a high first bolt and climb past two more bolts to a two bolt anchor.

P1 is dirty but good. 9+. Check guide for description. P2 is a crazy downward traverse to the left (to gain the obvious pillar). The book says 5.4. Huh? 8R. P3 is astounding (as is obvious just by looking at it from the ground!), The OW at the top is hard as shyt, then there is a difficult series of moves afterwards to gain the belay ledge that will ensure any on-sight is well earned.

Jump on this route when it's dry. Good friction throughout. 

  P1- 5.10a PG13 Start from a bolted anchor on ledge and climb up to base of C-Tips to place your first pro. Continue traversing right with some gear [small nuts or large RP's useful] to a stance slightly above a bolt. Clip bolt and down climb [crux] below it. Make a series of long thin face moves to another stance [good gear once there] or down climb more [easier] to a second bolt [DON'T CLIP 2nd BOLT] traverse and climb up to stance. Make your way to the bolted rap station. 

  P2- 5.9+ G/5.7 R Climb the obvious crack to a pair of bolts then climb to a second pair of bolts. Move over the 2nd pair and climb easier with scarce pro to ledge.   One 50m rap or two 30m. 

  There are 2 or 3 more pitches above but I didn't do them.

Ragtime is superb, heady, and not to be missed if solid at the grade. The sustained and exhilarating 3rd lead offers classic Poko face climbing above small gear and is among the very best on the cliff.  

  P1:  Gain Sting ledge either by traversing in from the left (exposed 3rd/4th class) or via the first pitch of the Sting (fun 5.8).  

  P2: Wander up the slightly scruffy and nondescript face above with only fair protection. The next pitch is worth it! You're aiming for an obvious bolted anchor left of P1 of Gamesmanship. 5.9- PG13. 

  P3: Climb up and slightly left along the obvious, somewhat hollow flake-like feature and steep face above. A challenging bulge is encountered along the way before reaching a decent stance beneath the final, improbable looking steep section. Protect well, procrastinate and mutter a bit, then commit and decipher a puzzling sequence to gain (with considerable relief) another bolt and fixed anchor above. 5.10+ PG13.

The cliff is extremely impressive for the Adirondacks. It lords over Interstate 87 between exits 32 and 33. There have been many close calls and near miss accidents as climbers strain to see the cliff and all it offers. Most of the routes on the cliff are in the moderate to hard range; that is don't expect the wonderful selection the Gunks offers, you have to earn the climbs here. However, if you feel comfortable at these grades then this is the place to be for big, long, and exposed pitches of high quality granite. Add to this the distance it takes to get there from major cities, this cliff has a quiet feel that is pure Adirondack climbing.And that is just the rock, don't get me started about the ice. Check out Don Mellor's guidebook Blue Lines for route descriptions.

Description

Protection

Routes in Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face