This face route is right of Baby-Point-Five, and left of Bimbo.

Tulip

Eschar

FLETC

Baby-Point-Five

Eyestrain

History

Simpatico

Bloodymir

[Redacted]

Tiptoe

Cranny

Eyesore

Black Eye

The Trough

Walkway

Profundity

Karpkwitz

Unprotected face just to the right of the route Walkway.  Finish as per that one.

Just right of center on the west face, there's a ledge about ten feet wide and five feet high.  You can gain the ledge through unprotected but relatively easy climbing at either end.

Eschar starts from the left end of the ledge, and moves up and left.  It feels a little stiff for 5.4, but protects well.

On the left side of the west face of Trashcan Rock (facing the large parking area), there are three wide, ugly-looking cracks.  From left to right, they are B-3, B-2, and B-1.

B-3 is not as fun as B-1, but it's definitely a better climb than B-2.  It might be worth climbing if you're new at the game and someone has set a TR for you, or if you've climbed Karpkwitz, since you can anchor the two from the same spot.  Probably not worth seeking out for its own sake, though.

Climb the dike left of

The Trough

, following it over the summit block.

This was a fun easy route. Start up a crack splitting a rib just right of the Eyesore chimney.  Place your 3.5 friend in a crack to your left.  Step on a little dike around the corner with a big crack.  The move is easy but a fall here may land you on a slabby ledge.  If nervous you may want to place your number 4 friend in the crack (slightly blind) before turning the corner.  Follow this crack up to the cap rock.  This is a good belay spot to watch your second.  Otherwise step over the cap rock and your done, except for the descent which is slightly more exciting then other sections of the rock.

This climbs the face between the routes Eschar on the left and Cranny on the right.

On the left side of the west face of Trashcan Rock (facing the large parking area), there are three wide, ugly-looking cracks.  From left to right, they are B-3, B-2, and B-1.

B-2 is an awkward, unaesthetic chimney.  Definitely my least favorite of the three.  You're probably better off avoiding this one.

This is a large, left-facing flake, with chimneying and some large face holds.  I've seen a number of people (including my father - age 67 at the time) do this as their first rock climb.  You can easily set up a toprope on it.

On the left side of the west face of Trashcan Rock (facing the large parking area), there are three wide, ugly-looking cracks.  From left to right, they are B-3, B-2, and B-1.  B-1 is the easiest, but it's also the only one worth climbing.  Chimney moves down low give way to fun climbing on patina plates up top.

This would be a good first climb on TR, and a great first trad lead.  If you could beat the crowds, that is ...

This is a fairly nice steep face and awkward hand crack.  From the start of Cranny, move right past a bolt on the steep face to reach a left-slanting hand crack.  This crack is more difficult than it looks, and it's awkward trying to place protection.

From Barlett: "Start in black-stained seams and cracks 10 feet right of Tulip and go up and left to meet that route at its bolt."

Moving left to the bolt seemed somewhat contrived, though clearly appropriate on lead.  On toprope, it seemed more natural to either move straight up into the top of Eschar, or to stay between the bolt on the left and the crack on the right.

Tiptoe up the crystals protruding from the thin dike in the middle of the face between B-1 and B-2.  There are three bolts, and no real need for anything else.

Belay from a strong stance in a niche up and left from the top of the climb, then walk off to the north.

Just right of center on the west face, there's a ledge about ten feet wide and five feet high.  You can gain the ledge through unprotected but relatively easy climbing at either end.

Cranny starts from the right end of the ledge, and follows the obvious double crack system.  It requires an interesting combination of techniques, and protection is adequate but not copious.

This is a deep chimney to the right of Simpatico.  It provides yet another beginner route on the rock.  The descent is longer than for most of the other routes - scramble north to the top of the rock and then head down.

I am not sure why this route gets overlooked.  Perhaps its stature or the rating. Actually it is not that great but it does make a good beginner lead or alternate descent.  Climb a short left slanting crack (see photo).  I met one of the colorful locals here.  Mr. Locker gave me a spot for the solo of this route.

Right of the route B-1 is this shallow crack that jogs right about halfway up before finishing up.

This is a west face route to the right of B-2. There are two bolts and getting to the first one is around 5.8 and high enough to get hurt. Moving by the first bolt is somewhat height dependent. For me at 5'9" it's a 10b. From the second bolt go straight up(10c) or traverse right and up--easier (5.10a).

On the left side of the west face of Trashcan Rock (facing the large parking area), there are three wide, ugly-looking cracks.  From left to right, they are B-3, B-2, and B-1.  Karpkwitz ascends just to the left of B-3.

This is a fun little climb.  It starts with some bouldery moves down low and climbs through some patina plates to a horizontal about 2/3 of the way up.  From there, you have the option of toping out using a curving crack to the left or face climbing on the right -- either way is about the same difficulty.  Anchor from the same spot as for B-3.  Walk off to the north.

Description

Protection

Routes in Trashcan Rock - West Face