If FOS was climbing here years ago, this obvious route was likely the first that they climbed... 

  Duh Crack climbing above where the trail comes up to the crag. Good jams, thin mini crux, grand tradition.

Field Holler

Gospel

Prosthesis

Be Yourself

Wing Man

Above The Storm

Debra

Chasing Dragons

Hobo Joe

New River

Off Shore Drilling

Ledgeway to Nowhere

Sawed Off Shovel

Mantle Madness

Our Daily Bread

Little Stout

Little Jugger Left

Metro Line

Lion's Bait

Little Jugger Right

Debra wanders quite a bit but that's part of her charm. Boulder up to a ledge with or without your belayer. Having your belayer up on the ledge will make the initial crux section feel safer. Getting to the third bolt is the crux requiring some power and technical ability. From there it's far from over. Negotiate some pockets on the arete and make some delicate sequential moves right to get established on the smooth slab. Move back left past a desperate slab crux. Great climbing near the arete again leads to a ledge. Two more bolts lead you up the final block to the anchor. Devious route requiring lots of technique.

An awesome thin crack variation that climbs mostly independent of 'Our Daily Bread' and 'Field Holler'

Another great line that has the trad/sport Peaks Crag attitude. Climb up through low angle terrain to a steep cove. Start clipping bolts and bust out through a steep roof bulge and into the nice headwall. Awesome movement in a mini dihedral.

Be Yourself implies that you are tolerant of different styles of climbing. Sometimes a choice must be made about how to equip a line - scary run-out trad, mixed, or sport. Be yourself and enjoy. The crux comes as you cut right out of the crack across a pocketed bulge. Classic.

Start off the boulder. The initial pull off the boulder gives you a taste of whats to come. This route will feel chossy in the start with elusive holds through the middle. The crux is about 2/3 the way up and somewhat contrived because you can climb to the left of it. Either way, once you get this route dialed it's an enjoyable romp up a proud section of the cliff. It won't feel that way on your first go.

Above the Storm is technically the unsent bolted route just to the left of 'Be Yourself' that climbs through a steep and beautiful bulge just to the left of 'Be Yourself'. Since the direct bulge is gnar hard but the upper head wall is so perfect it is possible to climb into it either by starting up the bolted start of 'Be Yourself" or to place gear and traverse in from 'Our Daily Bread'  

  C.Tatum bolted the whole line but opened it up to anyone who thinks they can float above the storm, several strong parties have tried to link the sharp and very hard (v10??) lower crux into the headwall...

One of the more common uses of the phrase "chase the dragon" eludes to the pursuit of an ever elusive, ultimate high. For most, this overhanging arête will leave you with an altered state of mind and if successful, a renewed love of the chase.This line climbs the sweeping, angular prow two routes left of New River though it shares the start with New River and Metro Line. Climb a rampy weakness past three bolts, then start moving left to a good shake at the base of the steep arête. A few big pulls between perfect jugs sets you up for a series of boulder problems that incorporates both sides of the arête and seem to get harder as you climb. A redpoint crux at the roof and clipping the anchors is a final whipping of the dragon's tail! Perhaps a hard onsight for the grade, especially if you time it wrong and get caught staring into the sun.

 Unfortunately this line has been shedding holds on the left side of the arête at the first crux before the big pocket.

Hobo Joe offers great technical movement on a beautiful panel of stone. Start on the left side of the cave and climb below a large, right trending weakness to gain a good stance on the right side of the little blunt arête. Eye the line then launch into the crux using small, weird crimps and a few amazing pockets.  From the large slopey pocket after the crux, bust left past the last bolt for slightly easier climbing, or continue straight up for a more sustained challenge. Move right on the break and climb out the right side with somewhat steep moves between good holds. Get on it if you like grinding your mind as much as your toes. Gets better and better the more you get to know it.

For the grade, New River is a classically varied and unique line for the area. The route features generous holds, a noticeable lack of crimps and packs in some good steep climbing in the upper half, which makes it thee 5.10 warm up at the crag.Essentially New River, Metro Line, and Chasing Dragons share the same start in a funky stem box feature. Work up and right to some jugs next to the first bolt, then move up past a few more bolts to a natural break. There are a lot of big holds in the steep headwall and good intermediates. Pick your way through engaging moves before a final mount to the anchors.Named after the New River Gorge where JB cut his teeth.

A thin boulder problem left of the bolt line leads to bigger holds and the chains. 

Layback big feature to ledge and then past a crux section with a high clip. Ramble up some easier climbing to a mantle onto a ledge at base of dihedral second crux. Surmount dihedral and finish wandering up left and up past jugs and easier climbing (put long draw on last bolt to reduce drag) to anchors. Fun, varied boulder problems mark this climb but it's ledgy nature takes away from the quality. Best to TR the route to clean draws.

A short but stout climb that tackles a little roof near the top. Start up a fun seam to get staged under the roof. Hand holds become devious over the roof, and the moves slightly awkward. You must try hard here, but the climbing eases to the anchor after that.

Just to the climber's right of New River is a mysterious line of bolts known as Mantle Madness. It is a thought provoking route and gets one's legs and hips stretched out. Thin technical climbing down low gives way to steadily increasing hold size until the final juggy pulls to the anchor.You can start off the deck to increase the grade, though the standard start is off the boulder if you can span it.

Splitter Dacite? Of coarse not... This great all gear line looks like it is going to be splitter heaven but packs bite that only dacite can deliver. Funky jams, and great nutting up a steep varied crack.

Start as for Little Jugger Left. Climb up and left past moderately difficult moves in overhang to good hold where you can size up the power crux. Get through the crux and be rewarded with fun long reaches to anchor.

Metro Line shares a start with Chasing Dragons but continues straight up toward the steep and pretty white dihedral. Really good 5.9+ climbing gets you to a ledge at the start of the crux section above. Follow the curving bolt line through a fabulous, bouldery sequence on perfect holds.

A great line that will test your sport climbing fingers but engage your trad climbing toes. Sport-ditional  

  Named after a phantom encounter with a big cat and little Moo...

Short and juggy. If it were only longer...

The North End of the Main Wall is an amazing display of geologic geometry, dazzling colors, large clusters of ancient boulders, and some of the best climbing at The Peaks. This sector roughly includes all routes to the climber's right of the entrance trail and the forest service post. This post is used for seasonal closure signage and as a closure boundary marker.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in 1. North End