Sweet Bro is a variation to the legendary "Killer" that ups the grade a couple notches by adding a pumpy headwall that terminates in a sequential boulder problem.  Though perhaps justifiably neglected by the enviably spoiled locals, this is a thoroughly excellent route that would be considered highly classic if it weren't surrounded by so many astounding climbs.

Begin up Killer, using the fixed aid ladder or tram start.  Lieback up & left for five bolts, then head straight up the amazing panel of pockets.  Charge over the roof as for Killer, clip the first bolt over the lip, then immediately head right, following a lightly chalked line of pockets left of Mr. Majestyk.  Long, powerful reaches between sometimes crumbly and dirty pockets lead to a pumpy shake below the final bulge.  Work up the left-facing flake, then make big moves back right to reach the Majestyk anchor.

Sweet Bro

One Love

Nirvana

Mr. Majestyk

Stronger Than Reason

Black Dynamite

Spook Eyes

Cannonball

Bloody Endeavor

Busload of Faith

Dr. Endeavor

Basra

Pitch Black

Sign of the Times (pitch 2)

Sam I Am

Harvest Moon

Clown Stabber

Harvest Rush

Baghdad

Blue Moon

Stronger Graveyard

Endeavor to Persevere

HyperNova

Deadman's Reach

Elmo's Fish

Samsara

Global Warm-Up

Organic

Virga

The Successor

Come Home Curly

Sun Spot

Sign of the Times (First Pitch)

Cutthroat

Ring of Fire

Firecracker Kid

Moonstone

Powderfinger

Pocket Kalkulator

After the Gold Rush

To the Moon, Alice

Blood Line

Sister Ray

Wield The Scepter

Kingdom of Jah

Make Sinks Great Again

Brown Trout

Action Candy

Full Moon

Killer

House of God

Whirling Disease

Second Hand Nova

The Throne

The Urchin

King of Hearts

Cartoon Graveyard

Exodus

Bush Doctor

Back-up Binkie

Enduro, almost.  Start by aiding to the 1st bolt.  Launch into the crux via technical and powerful pulls on the left angling seam, edges, and pockets.   Move left onto the classic pocket pulling headwall.  Crank the roof and hold on for the wild ride through the killer pump to the anchors.  Classic moves on the 'biggest holds you'll ever fall off'.

Low crux to a good shake and another cruxy bit thru the roof up high.

A0 start just right of Killer.  4 routes begin here, Nirvana is the second from the right.  A crimpy crux shared by all 4 leads to a long draw.  From a rest here you trend right to an overhanging head wall with positive pockets and edges.  A (relatively) hard move off an undercling to the second to last bolt provides the redpoint crux and may make it 5.13.  Pumpy and sustained.

Does the first five bolts of Killer, then goes straight up passing a thin crux section. From here you climb into a dihedral, through a horizontal pocket band, and then into the largest hueco in the cave. Get a good rest here on either a heel hook or a knee bar, for which you will probably want a pad.  After this rest, continue up and slightly left passing a hard sidepull sequence at the last bolt surmounting the final roof of the cave.

Stronger Than Reason begins in between the "Killer" and "Cartoon" starts. Tram to the first bolt and start on two good pockets (start on the side pull if its dry). Make hard but fun pulls straight up the clean face on good pockets. After a section of mediocre rock, move up and right on big side pulls. Reach the large break that splits the cave and traverse left on the rail, eventually joining Mr. Majestiyk. Utilize the huge rests and knee bars, then punch through the lip of the cave on a hard boulder problem to finish.

Several variations seem to exist. After traversing left on the rail and climbing up part of Mr. Majestyk, one can pull a crux and move right to the Cartoon Graveyard anchors for 13bish points. This avoids the hard, final boulder problem.

Another variation is moving right at the large break that splits the cave and finish the route on the upper 1/3rd of Cartoon Graveyard. This feels like a more logical line at 13-.

Lots of these variations have names. I heard "Center Stage" thrown in the mix once? Comment if ya'll know.

start on "Powderfinger" and exit to the anchor of Sign of the Times P1.  Climb up one bolt above this anchor and trend right following a line of black hangers to a roof.  Bust some big moves, climb into diheadral and then back to black streak higher.  Good and long.  60M will get you back down; knot the end you knucklehead!

This truly outstanding wall of pockets is guarded by a brutal one-move boulder problem passing the first bolt.  This move looks much harder than it is, and an unnecessarily low first bolt adds to the intimidation factor.  However, the upper panel offers some of the best moderate pocket climbing in the Canyon, so stick clip the second bolt and give it a try if you're in the mood for some european-quality limestone.

Stick clip at least the first bolt, then step left from the ledge to reach a pair of sinker pockets.  The crux move gains a big jug and a few positive edges to establish on the hanging wall.  Weave back and forth between sinker pockets and the odd edge, generally easing with height towards the obvious flowstone bulge.  Follow big huecos over the fun bulge to the anchor.

Cannonball climbs an excellent steep wall of tufa flowstone, culminating in a thrilling horizontal roof crawl.  Unfortunately this side of the cave tends to seep in the spring, so the routes around here can be dirty from time to time.  Its possible to bail from a lowering station just before the roof, which makes for an outstanding 5.11+/12-.

Begin in the Baghad corner with a wicked, height-dependent boulder problem.  Stem up the funky corner, then make a few cranks to clear a bulge.  After a great shake on the slab, follow great pockets up the vert wall, then onto a slightly overhanging panel of flowstone.  Catch your breath at a good shake, then make wild, gym-like moves out the intimidating roof.  The redpoint crux hits right at the end, with a desperate struggle to get established over the lip of the roof.

This is a hybrid of Blood Line and Endeavor to Preserver. Climb Bloodline/Bush Doctor start then traverse into Bloody Endeavor where you would normally enter the upper dihedral.

Busload is the classic hard testpiece at Sinks Canyon, as it is relatively long and sustained compared to its peers.  The route follows a nearly flawless swath of orange stone, yet is marred slightly by the slimy flake at mid-height.  Despite its relative continuity, this is certainly a line for the boulderer, with all of the business coming before the fourth bolt.

The route begins with a vicious boulder problem (that can be bypassed with an enormous reach), capped with a huge dyno to reach the second bolt.  A few easy cranks lead to a shallow mono, an awkward lieback, a big span, and finally the redpoint crux: a desperate windmill stab to a three-finger pocket at the fourth bolt.  After the first decent shake on the route, move right to the "Trouty" flake, then up and back left, making athletic reaches between hero jugs.  A medium-sized crimp at the 5th bolt and a series of two-finger pockets above the 6th provide something to worry about while cruising the steller upper panel.

Yes..... it's another linkup, but at least it's a good one.  If you want to skip the difficult start on

Endeavor to Persevere

and still climb the amazing arete above this is the ticket.

You still get a pretty legit crux section beginning just past bolt 4 and ending with a long move just past bolt 6.  Manage the pump and enjoy the view on your way up the arete.  There are still a few chances to blow it if you pick the wrong path or your forearms flame out.

Enjoy.

Shares boulder start with Baghdad, House of God, Zero Degrees and others. Climb up dihedral and travserse left through bouldery moves. Head straight up one bolt line left of Baghdad. Good rest on slab and tricky headwall to anchors.

an adventure pitch, climb to "Blue Moon" lower anchors and then scramble up and left on to the ledge or climb "Brown Trout". Anchor into the "Brown Trout" anchors and bring up the second.  Climb off the ledge and onto the overhanging black streaked prow, pockets and jugs, transfer (crux) to the left on flat tech wall.  Upper slab is 5.10+ on a great streaked wall.  Originally envisioned by Greg Collins.

Pitch 2 is the left line of bolts above the anchor of Sign of the Times (there is a 12b called Hypernova going right).  The route follows a prominent black streak up gently overhanging stone on crimps and small pockets.  It goes through a small roof with 12a move at the 2nd to 3rd bolt, followed by a decent rest.  It then moves right to a big sidepull, then back left again up a very shallow dihedral.  The crux starts at the last bolt with small sidepulls and high feet.  The route ends with your hand on the top of the cliff band while you are clipping the anchors.  Would get more love it it wasn't a second pitch.

A great moderate addition to the Harvest Moon Wall.  This route features some excellent rock and slew of enormous pockets.  Apparently this route will suffer from runoff after heavy rains.

Begin with some easy stemming up a beautiful dark gray panel.  The crux comes at the third bolt--a few slab moves to get from a mini-ledge to jug pockets on tan rock.  Cruise the fun, easy slab to the anchor.

A great opening on Harvest Moon leads to a romp on the face above.  The line follows the right leaning layback for a short bit (a newer 5.10 line keeps heading up and right).  Clip a bolt up and left on the face and make the transition back left onto the face.  The crux comes here and shortly after you'll be singing praise.

Clown Stabber ascends the clean, white face right of the shared start corner. Climb up the Bush Doctor crack, then head right for a few moves working into the juggy undercling. Clip a bolt, then power through a series of 5 or 6 sinker pockets that are miles apart. The pockets are deep enough to crank on, but good feet and body english are required to tackle the steep face. Climb through the white face then join the rest of the routes to finish on Bush Doctor or Bloodline.

Several variations have been done including starting on the Endeavor boulder, climbing Clown Stabber, and finishing Ring of Fire. Get creative!

Start up the undercling flake of Harvest Moon. Where that route heads up and left, continue right along the flake until it becomes a corner, then follow bolts out left onto the face (this is the top of After the Goldrush.)

Bagdhad is the arching line between Killer and Endeavor to Persevere.  It was rated 5.13- in Greg Collins 1991 guidebook to Sinks Canyon.  Later, people were thinking 5.12d.

The start is hard, but not as bad as freeing Killer's initial moves.  Most climbers will prefer the amazing holds of Killer.  However, for those who can't ignore the feeling that aiding the start of Killer is a taint, Bagdhad is a less difficult way to completely free a direct line up Killer Cave.

Hard climbing up and leftward brings you to a slightly scary dyno on merely vertical rock.  The really big pocket holds finally show up under the summit roof.

Varied climbing with a pump.  Pull your way up the easy right facing flake.  Yank your way onto the face via pockets.  Decipher a right traveling crux and hang on to the chains.  Fun climbing, good stone.  For 12a it may be soft, but you might argue otherwise afterwards, at least your forearms might.

A Mountain Project worthy linkup that climbs a super plumb line of the Killer Cave. Stronger Than Reason doesn't see much traffic due to the intimidating grade; hopefully posting the "easier" linkups gives it more traffic.

Start on the side pull or hard pockets of 'Stronger Than Reason'. Crank past the crux moving up until the wall steepens. Pull a hard move to reach the big break of the cave. Here, this linkup moves right to 'Cartoon Graveyard' with minimal traversing, resulting in a flowy line. Finish the top 1/3rd of Cartoon passing one more hard move.

Endeavor to Persevere tackles the steep arete on the right side of the Killer Cave. It may be the most aesthetic line in Sinks Canyon, and it is certainly one of the best in the Lander area.

Start on a large boulder, under the roof, on a side pull and a pinch. Jump up to a right hand jug, then surf out to a 4 finger gaston pocket with your left hand. Next you go up right to a vertical three finger pocket. The left hand stops at an intermediate crimp and then up to the clipping hold, a left hand crimp/pocket. Make a hard clip off this hold, then dead point off of it and a right mono, locking off to a right hand pinch/crimp with poor feet. Next go up to the undercling crack and rest here.  This long boulder problem is probably around V8.  Note that falling while clipping the fourth bolt would require an attentive belayer to keep you off the large boulder at the base.

There is another 13a crux pulling over the overhang onto the main part of the arete between bolt 6 and 8. It is difficult to clip bolt 8. Make sure you have good beta for this section as it sucks to fall here after having done the difficult entry numerous times (personal experience). There is a decent shake to the left of bolt 9. A 5.12 move a few bolts higher keeps you honest on the redpoint burn.

Crux over buldge in middle of route. Red point tech crux last two bolts. Long and sustained last 5 bolts of climbing.

Cannonball's

kid brother climbs the same corner system to ultimately surmount the towering roof on the right end of the Killer Cave.  The two climbs are quite similar, but Deadman's reach is a bit more difficult leading up to the roof, and while the roof business is much shorter, its also more burly (albeit, less pumpy).

Struggle up the Baghdad corner to reach a no-hands rest at a detached flake about halfway up the corner.  Bust left from the top of this flake, following the second line of bolts from the right.  Easy pulls up the vertical wall lead to a nice, slightly overhanging flowstone section below the roof (about 5.12a to here?).  A zombie span leads to the lip of the roof and a desparate struggle to turn the lip.

Elmo's Fish is characterized by a steep, somewhat long crux move followed by fun continuous upper pocketed face. Start by heading up an easy right leaning dihedral for two bolts before heading back left onto the bulging face. Fire through the next few body lengths of climbing, control the pump on the face above to the anchors.

Starts as for Nirvana and Cartoon Graveyard.  Goes left after the long draw (6th) and then breaks right from Cartoon to punch through the steepest part of the headwall above.  A V3/4 crux protects the finish (feels v9 when you're pumped).

This relatively new addition is a great moderate option.  Perhaps due to its youth, the holds on this route still have plenty of texture, unlike the other lines on this wall.

Begin with cruxy stemming up the short groove.  Eventually a sinker jug is reached on the left, the angle kicks back, and the climbing becomes more casual.  Several more bolts of juggy slabbing lead to the anchor.

Steep start on a "juggy" flake leads to long, thin pocket moves.  Decent shake at 2/3 height and then .12+ through the upper headwall.  Possibly unrepeated?

Start right of the Killer start.  Virga ascendes a line of pockets starting out of an overlap pretty far off the ground (it requires an A0 start).  Sequential reaches to good pockets.

Start off a cheater stone to avoid a wet start.  Ascends crimps and gastons/sidepulls to an obvious hueco.  From here climb up through the crux, a long pull off good pockets to a small edge and a mono.  Then it's just pumpy 5.12 climbing through ever steepening rock.

Basically a long boulder problem through the low roof.  Huge horizontal cross move midway thru the crux.  Requires good tendon strenght.

This venerable classic has been a regular stop on the warm-up circuit for years.  As such, it is now severely polished, but still worth doing if you don't mind working a wee bit harder than usual for the grade.  The rock is generally excellent, with a number of great pockets, and smooth crimps that are easy on the skin.

Stick clip the first bolt, and make cruxy moves off the deck to reach a decent jug at the second bolt.  The difficulty eases above, but intricate moves between small pockets keep the pump going all the way to the chains.

Sign of the Times is a nice moderate 5.11 that is not quite as polished as some of the others on this wall.  There is bit of thrutchy climbing at the start which can provide a nice break from the more common sharp crimps and tweaky pockets.

Begin with balancey moves up the undercling.  Sloping crimps and a good pocket provide access to the diagonal rail up & left.  More undercling/sidepull business leads to the slab and easier, though still engaging climbing on textured stone.

This line serves as the approach pitch for two routes on the upper headwall.  Use a 70m rope to climb the upper pitches from the ground & lower back down.

What do you do when you've climbed all of the warmups on the Harvest Wall?  You climb Cutthroat.

Cutthroat is an extension to

Brown Trout

, climbing the upper tier to the true lip of the wall.  Fans of finger locking will really enjoy this pitch.  Unfortunately the rock here is quite poor by Lander standards, so this route should be avoided unless you have the cliff to yourself.

Extreme care must be taken if you climb this in one pitch with a 60m or shorter rope!

Begin by climbing the good but greasy

Brown Trout

to reach a big ledge below the massive dihedral.  A few easy moves gaine the dihedral, then stem, jam, and lock with steadily increasing difficulty to a long move where the crack pinches down just before the anchor.

Some of the best pockets in Western Wyoming can be found in the large left-facing dihedral at the right end of the Killer Cave, and Ring of Fire is no exception.  Climbing a beautifual swath of tufa-stone, sinker pockets seem to appear at just the right intervals, but be prepared to crank quite far between them.  Despite its length, this line is not very sustained, with the business involving a brief & powerful series of pulls over the obvious roof at 3/4" height.

Begin as for Bush Doctor, etc, with a stem off the boulder to reach the obvious crack system.  Grunt your way up the crack to the point where Bush Doctor & Bloodline undercling right.  Stay left for one more clip from the crack before launching onto the steep bulge.  Head straight up towards the obvious roof and a distinct crux involving excellent pockets.  Fight the pump through more great pockets for another two bolts to the anchor.

The pockets on this route are a little raspy compared to routes on the left side of the cave.

An older line, originally lead on gear?  Now bolted.  The true start is a two bolt version up a right facing flake to gain the dihedral above. Another option (easier) is to clip the first two bolts of Elmo's fish.  Continue up and right in the fun dihedral as it steepens and pockets pulling becomes the order of the day.  Fun climbing, and possibly 10a with the flake start.

Left side of Killer Cave, starts just right of Blue Moon (look for a large right facing flake). First, pull on some greasy crimps leading to a long rightward move on really crappy feet. This is the first crux, shared with Sister Ray, which goes right from here.

Moonstone then goes straight up and has a long deadpoint move to a hueco at bolt 5 for a second crux. Probably 12a above that on small pockets.

The first boulder problem is really hateful and probably no stars, but the upper crux is really pretty cool and aesthetic.

Powderfinger is another great warmup for those seeking early morning sun.  By mid-day the route is baking, but it receives shade in the afternoon/evening.  As a relatively new line, Powderfinger is less polished than many of the other routes on this wall.  These factors, combined with movement that is fun and engaging, make Powderfinger a great option at the grade.

Begin below the left side of a small roof ~ 10 heet up.  Balance between thin gastons & edges to a good jug at the roof.  Lieback past the left side of the roof to reach some good jugs.  Fun pockets and edges lead up the lower-angle wall above.

Difficult start that eases after the crux bulge.

A newer route that starts about 15 feet right of Harvest Moon.  Difficult face climbing through the first two bolts leads to the undercling flake a few feet up and right of HM's face section.  Head up and slightly right on easier ground.

This route is one of the extensions to "Blue Moon", and departs from its anchor.

The route has some great moves and excellent rock.  Unfortuantely they are both guarded by a 10' band of heinous choss that is held together by a mixture of rat feces and swallow's nest.  This would merit a bomb if the upper bit weren't so much better.  Still, best to avoid this until you are truly desparate for something new, and definitely do not climb it on a crowded day.  It may be possible to traverse in from "Cutthroat" to avoid the choss band.

Warm up on Blue Moon's greasy slopers, then carefully move left onto the choss-coverd ledge for a brief rest.  This is a good place to re-consider your route choice one last time.  Once the belayer's helmet is secure, head straight up the wall to the sketchy horizontal break.  Clip a dubious bolt at the lip, then mantel onto the nice flowstone panel.  A few comfortized pockets lead up the multi-colored slab that slowly steepens, culminating in a pumpy crux just before reaching the finger crack on the left.

A great line, with the crux the shared start with Bush Doctor which involving a handjam, pockets and laybacking up the initial seam.  Continue up the dihedral and head right across an airy traverse and finally up another cruxy (but not as cruxy) overhanging stemming dihedral.  Classic climbing!

Shares start with Moonstone but goes right after the first crux, which is balancy and has crappy feet.  It consists of a long rightward move to a jug from insecure hands and feet.

Sister Ray trends right and has another hard sequence passing a small overlap on pockets and an undercling.  It joins Busload of Faith at the last bolt and shares anchors with that route.

A pure way into Collins's route; The Throne.

Undercling right to the Throne.

Kindest, right most route from the "Nirvana" start. Hail up ! $

Another nice addition! Climbs up a slab to a more pocket featured headwall that turns more vertical. Fun route that will only clean up more with time.

This line is a slippery little thing.  Grab onto the edges and pockets, pull up to the bulge, finagle your way left and up onto the bulge (crux).  Hold on for several more clips to the anchors.  The route is perhaps worth doing once, but there are plenty of routes of better caliber at Sinks.

Well protected and fun climbing - a long line with many nice pockets along the way.  Some nice bulges up higher.  A great route to get the climbing flow going.

the full extension of "blue moon", black and blue upper slab, 120 feet long, use a 70m or lower twice with a 60m, may need some more cleaning, upper anchor now added

Bagdad start, the normal boulder problem into easy corner, then traverse Bagdad, Basura and even further left line of pockets to black streak and hole then up streak.

Start up small greasy crimps to come into a good side pull in the seam. Get a good left hand pocket above the buldge and make a tough move getting into the flake (crux). Climb the flake into many jugs on better rock. Would be a good climb if the rock wasn't so terrible.

This excellent route starts behind the tree to the left of Action Candy.  This route has a little bit of everything on it.

Start with a crimpy traverse to the left to join a short crack.  Follow jams and liebacks past the first of the crux moves.  A moderate slab leads to a large roof.  Angle right through the roof with big moves.  There is a key under cling on the right to ease passage.

Left side of the Killer Cave. Starts from a cheater stone with a hard boulder problem involving small crimps to an obvious undercling. Sustained bouldering and ultra long moves lead to a shake at the 6th bolt. Move through several challenging redpoint cruxes before the end.  Finish on the "throne," a big ledge that you can sit on if you want to.

This line packs a lot of fun climbing into a short distance.  It begins with powerful laybacks and underclings into a reaches and throws between good holds on the steep bulge.  I can almost guarantee you'll be sans contact between your feet and the rock at least one point during the roof.  The bouldering quickly ceases and you'll find yourself suddenly in the midst of a nice crimpy technical puzzle. The climbing is three stars on this route, but I simply prefer longer routes. Boulder-ers would probably give this 3 stars.

Despite its uncommon length, King of Hearts is a bouldery route featuring two distinct crux sections, split by long stretches of fun, moderate slab climbing.  While this route is sunny nearly all day, its proximity to the large juniper can make it a reasonable choice for a warm day, at least from the belayers point of view.

Stick clip the first bolt, and make difficult, off-balance moves to reach a small jug-ledge and a brief respite near the second bolt.  More strenuous reaches lead to juggy flakes on the slab.  Cruise nice pockets & big edges to the obvious bulge.  Diminishing pockets lead over the bulge to a few desperate cranks to reach the slab.  Easier edging leads to the anchor.

Start just right of Killer. Do a hard opening boulder problem to a decent rest at a long draw then trend left and stay left when you get the option (Samara goes right). Finishes at a two bolt anchor just below the final roof.  Great movement and a good intro to the steep routes in the Killer Cave.

Roof extension above Cartoon anchors.  Rest then punch through a lip/boulder problem onto upper face.  Worthy extension to all the link ups as well.  Sexodus, Mexodus etc.

Bush Doctor shares its start and 5-6 bolts with Blood Line(11d), before heading left up an overhanging headwall (not the farthest left line - a harder 12 called "Ring of FIre"). The bottom crux involves a somewhat painful handjam, some sequential moves, followed by laybacking with popcorn limestone feet. After a mellow section up a left facing dihedral, you approach the turning point between Bush Doctor and Blood Line. The upper crux has some long pulls, generally on positive holds. Fight through the pump to the anchors.

Back-up Binkie is a bouldery line on the right end of the Killer Cave, featuring fun moves and excellent rock.  For a vertical boulder problem, the rock is not terribly sharp, and with afternoon shade on the crux start, this can be a good option on a warm day.

Begin with a few easy moves to reach the first bolt.  The crux is the next section of long moves between large holds that all face the wrong way.  Once the third bolt is reached, the grade drops to ~5.9 for 30 feet or so to the looming bulge.  A second, easier crux of pumpy moves ascend the short bulge to the anchor.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Killer Cave