This route tackles the large, enticing corner atop the main terrace.   

  Climb the corner, passing a short, wide section (crux). Continue up the very featured corner to a small roof.  Pass this on the right, continue climbing the corner until another, much larger roof at the top is reached.  At this roof, it is easy to escape left to a set of drop-ins shared with "Geronimo", or one can making the exciting 20' traverse out right to the shared tree anchor with "Desperado" and "Crazy Horse".

Space Cowboy

Ricochet

Drifter

Desperado

Tombstone

Warpath

Sundance

The Good, The Bad, and The Ugly

Once Upon a Climb in the Northeast

Bandito

Time Bomb

Bozeman Bullet

Time Bomb, Sundance Link up

Sioux City Sarsaparilla

Geronimo

Crazy Horse

On the face in between Geronimo and Space Cowboy, climb straight up on thin holds. Stay out of the cracks of the routes on either side. Once the face comes to an end, pull into the crack of Geronimo, and climb up to the fixed anchor of Space Cowboy.

Climb easily to a ledge below a right facing corner - up this then left at the top of the corner to reach the crack and follow it through a bulge to the fixed anchor. 

Sandbagged?--You be the judge. 

  Start by climbing up on good holds into the steep open book.  Get your stemming legs primed, and tackle this sustained section of climbing passing two pins and two bolts.  (Some say clipping the 2nd and 3rd bolt are a bit cruxy.)   

  Milk a good rest after exiting right around the corner, then continue up the large right-facing corner until it is possible to step left and finish through steep holds to the tree anchor.

Steep crack climbing followed by an off-vertical technical face above. 

Pitch 1 (5.9): Climb up to the lone bolt, and make the crux move across the face to the crack (protection) below the notch in the overhang. Pull through the overhang, on large features, and follow the line of weakness up to the two bolt belay. 

Pitch 2 (5.10a): From the belay, move right, clip the bolt and then traverse under the bolt to the crack system. Climb the crack until it narrows off, and jog right past the "hollow sounding Tombstone flake" (Lawyer and Haas) and continue up the crack to a bulge with a pin. Pull through the bulge (crux) to a small stance and follow the crack to a bolt and continue face climbing, jogging right after the crack system runs out. Continue trending up and right, past two horizontals (poor pro) & some pockets, to the top.

A great route with wonderful exposure and clean corner/crack climbing on pitch 2.   

  Pitch 1 (5.6)  Start with "a move" to the first jug, then romp up the left-angling ramp to a a couple balancy moves around some loose-ish rock to the fixed anchor. 

  Pitch 2 (5.9-)  Begin on the left of the anchor with a committing high-step move to your first solid piece of gear--a pin.  Clip this, then move up the ramp/corner with some funky--but fun--laybacking up a nice, exposed corner.  At the top of the corner, clip the lone bolt and traverse right to the 2-bolt anchor, shared with the neighboring routes.

Some of the more interesting stemming on the cliff.   

  Start this route by fighting off the barndoor of a very tricky sequence in a corner/groove crack that leads to a welcomed stance at 50' below a steep, and tremendous finger crack.  Work up this crack, mastering this stemming exercise, and gain the anchor.

Same Start as Warpath. Head straight up through a roof to the base of a 4 inch OW crack. Climb the bolt protected crack (or bring big cams)making a tricky mantle to the top of a free standing pillar. Another tricky move leads to a piton and sustained jug hauling to a tree (no longer safe to belay from). Continue past tree through cracks to the top another 20 feet. Making way to a new anchor atop Tombstone. Its a fun route and has a few committing but well protected moves.  Decent: Use the drop ins for Geronimo and rap the huge right facing corner with a singe rope, or use the new anchor and take 2 rappels to the base of Tombstone with a single rope.

Start up slabby climbing to reach the finger crack.  Pull the mini roof to get established in the corner. Clip the piton and make a balancy stand up move.  Move right onto the face.  Climb the face to a jug.  Go up the shallow left facing corner and exit right (crux).  Finish on crimps and jugs to a bolted anchor.

A short and sustained finger crack with a flaring crux. Easily top-roped after leading Warpath , but a good challenging lead as well. Gear placements might be tricky in spots. 

  Clip the bolt up and right of the bolted belay. Follow the flake/incipient crack through a few short hand sections and past a dead tree stump to the leaning finger crack. Follow the incipient crack through the roof and up the face/seam/crack above until it is possible to step left to the anchor for Warpath.

This route will test a range of skills.  It starts with some technical climbing down low with a mix of slabby face moves and some balancy moves on the arete.  This start will be the crux of the route for most and is bolt protected. 

  After climbing the arete you'll work your way into a small corner system.  This section eases off a bit in difficulty and is trad protected. 

  The upper section of the route is what gives it the name.  Do some gymnastic climbing through a series of scary, large blocks which are mostly bolt protected.  You may choose to supplement these with gear to sew it up.

One of the most under-rated moderate face-climbs in the Adirondack Park.  A true gem with stunning positioning, and equisite movement.   

  Start below the large, featured face and angle up past a piton, through a broken crack to a horizontal that leads to the arete.  Gain the arete, and make use of the copious bread loaf holds littering the arete below the optional belay anchor at 60'.   

  Either lower from the first set of drop-ins, or continue for another 40 feet up and slight right into the steep and positive corner system leading to another set of drop-ins.

This Link Up is super obvious and allows you to enjoy some of the hard climbing on Time Bomb without having to climb through the broken rock Higher up. Makes for a well protected 10+ climb. Start Same As time Bomb. Climb the arete (crux) after exiting the Arete step up and right a few feet to join Sundance.

Inspiration for the name: The Big LebowskiStart in the shallow right facing at a small pedestal of rock.  Make some face moves up to a jug and the first bolt.  Gain the large right facing corner (crux 1).  Follow the right facing corner past a bolt and then a piton.  Make a stand up move (crux 2) and reach a bolt.  Follow the corner up to a slab.  Gain the slab (crux 3).  Follow the slab up to another bolt.  Once above the slab clip the final bolt and move out left through roofs (crux 4) with incredible exposure and great movement to the bolted anchor.Variation: At the last part of the roof at an alcove instead of going straight up move to the right of a tight seam on to a beautiful shield of rock.  Make tough face and layback moves to gain the anchor ledge. Contrived but great climbing.  10c/d.

A deceptively tricky off-width just right of the clean Bozeman Bullet face.   

  Climb up, and through the tenuous off-width, clipping 2 bolts.  Gain access to the ledge below the steep right-facing corner.  Climb this, then head up and right to another steep corner.  Use large incut buckets, and surprisingly good feet to gain access to the upper face.  Continue to the top and shared anchor with Bozeman Bullet.

This is a high-quality line with two tricky, beta-intensive cruxes. Having now done this many times, the route has grown on me and it's now one of my favorite 12a's in the park.It's easy to set up a toprope by leading Space Cowboy.Start in the Space Cowboy corner and go up a few feet, then traverse right to a good right-facing flake. Use a left-facing edge to gain a stance below the first roof. Over this (crux #1) and up to a second roof (crux #2) and on to a third roof. Break this using a crack (#0.5 Camalot), then up an easier face (runout, but easy) to a fixed tree anchor shared with Space Cowboy.

This is the main attraction at Deadwater.  There are over 12 routes in this area with several variations.  This is area has a southeast aspect, thus it receives good sun from mid to late morning until mid afternoon.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Main Cliff