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Peak Mountain 3

Transformation

FA Josh Gross, Taylor Woodward, and Lynn Sanson
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Transformation is a four pitch tour to the top of Monitor with excellent stone and engaging movement.

Pitch 1, 11+, 60 feet, 7 bolts. Thoughtful edging takes you up to an overhanging, crux section. Powerful, bouldery moves take you to a jug and a nice pull over a small roof. There are two bolts with chain/links at the anchor.

Alternative start to pitch 1, 10c. Begin on "

Go Down Gambling

", traversing into "Transformation" for its final 10 feet to the pitch 1 anchor.

It is highly recommended to link either start with pitch 2, this provides 160 feet of fun climbing and a nice stance atop pitch 2.

Pitch 2, 10c, 100 feet, 10 bolts. Excellent face climbing leads up right to a steep, left-facing corner. Climb past this to a small ledge, traverse right and move up a shallow corner past two bolts to a chain anchor.

Pitch 3, 10a, 140 feet, 17 bolts. There is great movement throughout this long pitch, consistent and engaging It has a chain anchor at a nice ledge.

Pitch 4, 10a, 150 feet, 13 bolts. Continued excellent incuts and sidepulls lead upward to some sweet underclinging, to laybacking, to pulling over a small roof action. After the roof, continue past a couple more bolts finally belaying from a tree near the summit. I highly recommend extending your anchor down from the tree to belay up your partner.

Walk off to the north and then down the gully/talus on west side of monitor.

Location

Start just left of

Go Down Gambling

.

Protection

Bolts, bolts, and more bolts. Bring 17 draws and shoes to walk off with. There are fixed anchors atop pitches 1, 2, and 3.